In the midst of all the festivities....

Post by **Artsay** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:14 pm

Good job with Receiver! I love that route. Those two up at Lady Slipper are good too. You should do the "12a" Flying Monkeys up there next time (next to Ruby Slippers). It's more like 11b/c (honestly, truthfully, I swear) and it's super fun.

I know that you only lead 1/2 of Jim's and that still rocks! It takes a lot of balls to get on a route like that. My goal is to just feel comfortable enough just to get on anything....not send it necessarily but just get *on* it. Often times that's all it takes to send a route and it may be the hardest part.

Post by **RTimm** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:15 pm

Yas: I whipped twice on Jim's this weekend. Two 30 footers. I ran out of gear, was way tired from laying the crack back (I had to do this because I lack crack technique, ripped my tape glove off, and tore a scab off my hand that proceeded to bleed all down the back of my hand) the last 30 feet. Props on sending Receiver!

Post by **Artsay** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:17 pm

I think a lot of people run out of gear on that route. It's super long and you need a lot of the same size gear.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:18 pm

Well hell Yas, congratulations anyway! Those are great sends!

Mj

Post by **Wes** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:19 pm

I got on the best trad line that I have ever climbed in the red, and maybe anywhere. Just followed JR (no, not that JR), but I am hoping to lead it maybe this weekend. It is a line that is worthy of missing a weekend in NC. A line that has everything you want in a trad line.

B3.

If you climb that grade, and have not done it, you must do it asap. It really rules.

Wes

Post by **SikMonkey** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:20 pm

Hey Wes,
are you talking about Dave Jr.? If so, where the hell has he been lately?

Mj

Post by **Wes** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:22 pm

Nope. Justin, known here as JR.

Wes

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:27 pm

You hear that, Loren!? You climb 5.11 trad! (Cuz your such a badass!) You should get on that!

Post by **Wes** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 5:34 pm

Hell yes he should go do it. It has all the cool stuff: A bit of wide crack climbing, some cool face moves, sustained technical crack climbing, boulder problems, and plenty of the "salsa" that makes leading cool. And plenty of "rests" along the way. The gear is there, but you can't just plug and go. There is even a easy OW to solo to get to the start, thus keeping the gumbys away.

Wes

Post by **andy_lemon** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 6:17 pm

Meadows wrote: It was a good weekend to be there because many were too hung over to get out. Except Andy, the true warrior who sleeps little, drinks a lot and still climbs.

Rock Warriors Way baby!!! See, I aquired my motivation by climbing with Arno Ilgner on Friday. I didn't even know that I knew Arno and Roger from Nashville... I've climbed with them at King's Bluff previously but didn't relize who they were until Friday morning when we met at Miguel's.

Went to Global Village with Arno, Roger, Christian, and Sam... Did a bunch of cool routes, some trad... Kentucky Pinstripe (5.10-something) has got to be the best route there in my opinion (thanks hamsco). Saturday climbed with T-bone'r, T.K., and bruisebrother... we got on several good sport climbs at some sucluded bushwack place then drove over to Phantasia.... t-bone'r climbed "Twinkie" (5.12), that was awesome to see. Then we ran into Meadows and kanuck as we were getting off of "Creature Feature" (5.9). Sunday t-bone'r, T.K. and Bryan and Matt from E-ville went over to Roadside and we did "Fatha" (5.10-something) and "Roadside Attraction" then left early to make it on the road back home by Noon.

10 routes, a case and a half of beer, 12 hours of sleep, several new friends, all in 2 and a half days. The hardest approach was the drive back home.