Bad anchors on Hurt

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Redpoint
Posts: 435
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2008 10:14 pm

Bad anchors on Hurt

Post by Redpoint »

Has anyone else seen the horizontal crack that's formed at the anchors on Hurt?

I reported it to teamsuck, here is my description:

A 2 foot horizontal crack has formed that touches both anchors. I'm sure the bolts were not placed on this crack, but it formed from top roping most likely. These anchors are not on a strong vertical wall but instead about 9 inches under the bolts is just air. If the bottom half of the rock (under the new crack that formed) goes, the anchors are going with it. It's so bad I made this illustration:
Image
The route should be immediately red tagged at minimum. I was scared for my life rappelling, I should have lowered and placed a mallion on the last bolt as a backup, but I didn't think of that until I had already rappelled half way down.

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I don't know why I didn't red tag it. I guess at the time I thought I might be over reacting, and I also didn't have a red tag to do it. The anchors might not go today, they might not go tomorrow, but a bad enough top rope fall (which have been recorded to produce as much as 1000 pounds at the anchors), and they might go, hence why I think it should be red tagged.

So if anyone is near volunteer wall or the gallery, and has some red tape, could you please red tag it.

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Random rants:

Having one really loose anchor bolt (like on 27 Years of Climbing) doesn't bother me much. At least you have one good one, and the other still works as long as you didn't try to pull it out of the wall.

In the new Rock and Ice, a guy talked about climbing volcanic rock. He went to place the first bolt on lead risking a nsaty ground fall, and the drill bit instantly sank to the hilt. The bolt wouldn't tighten and it finally fell out and bounced down the wall. Finally he drilled four bolts side by side, put the bolts in without tightening them, equalized them, and then downclimbed. Now that would be scary.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
tactless
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:36 pm

Re: Bad anchors on Hurt

Post by tactless »

nice nipple ring on the left!

not sure about the mono-boob on the right. might need to work on shading the valley in between a bit more.
TradMike
Posts: 1173
Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Re: Bad anchors on Hurt

Post by TradMike »

Does anyone else think the top anchors of Another Doug Reed Route could detach with a big block? I remember that one raising an eyebrow but I have no clue how solid they are.
Cromper
Posts: 335
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 3:25 am

Re: Bad anchors on Hurt

Post by Cromper »

Jesus Christ...
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