Bolts: The Good, The Bad & The Ugly

[dustonian]

Are you still getting a good deal on that Elmer's rubber cement?

[dustonian]

Note: JOKE! ^^ Do not do this.

There, we're good now liability-wise.

[Cromper]

Are you still getting a good deal on that Elmer's rubber cement?

4 for 10 bucks at congleton bros. sale ends the end of this month though. Stock up while the prices are cheap. 1/8 in quicklinks are 2 bucks each and 1/2 in wood bits are 2.50!!!

[Nit]

I've climbed on all those. Even pulled one out, looked at it, put it back in, clipped it, and kept on climbing. It was going to be vertically loaded...safer than a lot of gear I've placed. *grin*

[climb2core]

Carry an adjustable wrench with you, or 9/16" will fit most. Tighten down but don't crank on it. Probably best not to be hanging on the bolt you are tightening as well.

If that doesn't fix it, or you still feel it is unsafe let Team Suck know. Climb intelligently.

[dustonian]

Man that's a lot for 1/8" quicklinks.

[Cromper]

Man that's a lot for 1/8" quicklinks.

Stainless, marine grade.

[Cromper]

http://imgur.com/r/climbing/5MEmIiY
My setup after about a year. Nails keep the bolt hole annual expansion rates at a minimum. Best option.

[toad857]

Okay, I hear you. Climbing is inherently dangerous, blah, blah, blah. And, every situation is unique. Make your own decisions.

But, I have never pulled a bolt -- is a rusty head an indication of a rusty bolt/sleeve? I would assume so, but IDK. Also, I have heard plenty of times, "it's just a spinner... bring a wrench". That statement makes it seem as though that is a normal occurrence and tightening maybe sufficient.

I'm not looking for rules or real guidelines and "trust" was a stupid word to use in my original post. I was looking for some opinions or anecdotes from those who have pulled bolts.

It's a big gray area, man. You're trying to put a square peg into a round hole.

[TradMike]

You just never know. A perfect looking bolt can be a death trap.

Some good reads
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/SoftRockBolting.pdf
http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/bomberbolts.htm
http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/hiltiwarning.htm