Would someone with re-bolting experience give their opinion on what bolts they would or would not trust?
Spinner: the hanger spins but the bolt head is clean and the bolt does not move.
Wobbler: the hanger spins and the bolt moves a minor amount.
Crusty: minor rust on bolt head, but no movement.
Rusty: entire bolt head is rusted, but no movement.
Exposed: the sleeve is exposed, but neither the bolt or hanger move.
All of the above assume there are no visible cracks in the rock surrounding the bolt. Add to the list if I missed something. Certainly there are combos of the above.
My partner fell on spinner (did not have a wrench) and it turned out to be a wobbler. It held, but got me thinking...
You are making everything too simplistic. It is not that easy. It is a matter of combined physics and chemistry. Rusty bolts might hold in crappy rock. Crappy rock might hold with a rusty bolt. Any combination between can be safe or dangerous. Do you really want to boil it all down to humanity's capabilities applied to/with nature/God's capabilities (whichever way you like to see it)?
Either way, we don't make it in the end.
Seriously, you can trust no bolt or no rock.
Last edited by whatahutch on Wed Mar 13, 2013 4:26 am, edited 3 times in total.
If you are in doubt, plan on it failing and calculate that into your fall. If you would deck with the bolt failing, climb with the knowledge you are free soloing. Make your choices accordingly.
I hope some better opinionated folks step up and speak, but the only ones that "so far" make me personally not climb a route are the really rusty ones.
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
Brentucky wrote:I hope some better opinionated folks step up and speak, but the only ones that "so far" make me personally not climb a route are the really rusty ones.
Seriously? Bolts may look bomber and fail. Rusty loose "wobblers" may hold for another decade. It is simple, you decide it is solid or not. Then make your decisions accordingly. Judge your skill vs the difficulty, the chance of falling, the distance if it blows and either climb it or don't.
Agreed. This is just one of those things you can't learn on the intardnet. Each bolt placement is a unique, precious, and potentially deadly snowflake. Climb at your own risk and support the Mank Bank and TeamSuck!!
Okay, I hear you. Climbing is inherently dangerous, blah, blah, blah. And, every situation is unique. Make your own decisions.
But, I have never pulled a bolt -- is a rusty head an indication of a rusty bolt/sleeve? I would assume so, but IDK. Also, I have heard plenty of times, "it's just a spinner... bring a wrench". That statement makes it seem as though that is a normal occurrence and tightening maybe sufficient.
I'm not looking for rules or real guidelines and "trust" was a stupid word to use in my original post. I was looking for some opinions or anecdotes from those who have pulled bolts.
