Rebolting Effort Details - Yank the Mank!

[climb2core]

15 more minutes to donate if you want to get in on the Heart Hold drawing... (12pm EST)

[Andrew]

Yeah, I've been pulling lots of sketch 2-3/4" and 3/8" bolts lately.

These weren't even 2-3/4 they were only 2 inches, maybe only 1-3/4 I will have to measure one. I have pulled a lot of bolts and these were the shortest I have seen.

[dustonian]

Yikes, good one. The original bolts on Sugar Magnolia were those shitty Redhead wedge bolts you can get at Home Depot for like 40 cents a "pop" (so to speak)... prime example of what NOT to do!! Thanks to Lee Smith for pointing this out and sponsoring the route.

[climb2core]

Andrew, send me pics if you can. Nothing like seeing shitty bolts to get people caring.

[Andrew]

Going rebolting on Monday. If anyone is interested, especially if you want to carpool from cinci with my dad and I.

[Andrew]

My dad rebolted High Hard One yesterday, while I was the subman. While I was climbing the route to hang the fixed line I noticed that this route had some of the worst bolts I have seen yet. Especially the second bolt with the spider web of cracks in the rock emanating from the bolt. wow. The old bolts still need to be pulled and I am interested to see their integrity.

[dustonian]

Nice boys! Whoever gets to the chopping first, take some pictures please. Also I can reimburse for hole patching material. I should get out there in the next 2 weeks hopefully.

[Cromper]

My dad rebolted High Hard One yesterday, while I was the subman. While I was climbing the route to hang the fixed line I noticed that this route had some of the worst bolts I have seen yet. Especially the second bolt with the spider web of cracks in the rock emanating from the bolt. wow. The old bolts still need to be pulled and I am interested to see their integrity.

I can pull the old bolts for you this coming weekend Andrew. Hopefully I can put those permas on 40 oz too and maybe put a fixed line on it.

[Andrew]

It is sometimes easier to not put a fixed line on the route. Don't put one on until I talk to you. Just let me know if you pull the bolts so that we can take that into consideration when planning. Thanks

[Andrew]

I pulled the old bolts on High Hard One... its ready to go and one of the better on the wall. I was shocked by the poor bolts on this route. The second bolt which had a spider web of crack running from the bolt was only a 2 inch bolt and when I pulled it the rock was bright orange and green, damp, and complete sand. I am amazed that bolt held for so long.