true story

[climb2core]

Wasn't this a 5.8 or so?

[KD]

personally, I think whoever put the goddam chain anchors on it gets the fa! As long as they get to the guidebook author first. I know these ethics of old have their traditional value but this is the new age goddammit! Climbing has undergone a revolution and things are just different from back in that old chock and stopper stoneage.

[toad857]

... "who the hell cares"? 20 years from now itll be irrelevant...naw, 20 days from now.

3 pages ago

[pigsteak]

Wasn't this a 5.8 or so?

why would the grade matter on accurate recording of an ffa or fa?

[climb2core]

It doesn't, just curious who these chuffers were that needed to preplace gear on a 5.8, had to TR it, and still had problems sending.

[Howie Feltersnatch]

personally, I think whoever put the goddam chain anchors on it gets the fa! As long as they get to the guidebook author first. I know these ethics of old have their traditional value but this is the new age goddammit! Climbing has undergone a revolution and things are just different from back in that old chock and stopper stoneage.

You're right. People in the red are now too chickenshit to climb ground up. Maybe in this scenario neither climber should get credit for climbing the line because they rapped it and pre-placed gear instead of heading up into the unknown.

[KD]

... "who the hell cares"? 20 years from now itll be irrelevant...naw, 20 days from now.

3 pages ago

This thread is a goddam important issue and should be good for another ten pages. Compared to Roadside closing, this is rant worthier than hell. I would like to take a moment to thank the author for giving us a great controversy to bitch about and to help to make our holidays brighter. Goddammit!

[pigsteak]

howie, wouldnt this negate every sport lin e in the red? i think all 1500 of them were rap bolted.

oh yeah, did i mention that the line in question is a sport climb, and the "preplaced" gear was a set of 10 draws? are we now saying the rules have changed as to who the fa belongs to?

[Howie Feltersnatch]

I don't care about who you name as the FA or FFA of anything. The only important part to me is that the art and adventure of climbing gear routes ground up isn't lost in whatever it is the red is becoming.

[tbwilsonky]

Wasn't this a 5.8 or so?

mark it 7, dude.