Sport Climbing Season

[One-Fall]

Best pre/during/post season yet - it's been fun to get more comfortable on steeper terrain.

I almost jumped off a move before the chains yesterday so that Lee wouldn't unfriend me.

I can't help but notice you said "almost" . . .

[shear]

Personally I don't buy the whole "New is hot hardman shit and Red is soft" story, but then I'm not really trying the 13's. At the 5.11-12 range, the New is often soft if anything--Bullet the New Sky and Jesus & Tequlia, for instance, are two "standard" 12b's there, and I have little doubt they would be 12a or even 11+ here. Not that this is relevant to anything.

I would be interested to see if other RRG climbers think that Jesus & Tequila is soft. Somehow I think you may be the anomaly.

HA!

[JR]

One-Fall- Out of the areas I have climbed around the states, southern Spain, frankenjura, and ceuse NR and most of the tech routes would be a grade or 2 softer. I've mainly come to that conclusion after spending time in Europe, I thought the climbing was going to be aboUt the same but it is truly humbling over here. That's not to say that I have also climbed routes easy for the grades as well. As far as NR when I did it I had a few factors go my way even though the conditions were shit, and I remember thinking for me the route was 12d but could see 13a. Then others got on it and thought 13c or really hard b. (other than Jason forester which thought the same as I did. You know as well as I know that grades are personal, he'll if I had an 8a account Golden boy would be 13d for me and there are many routes like that in the red for me! Nice job once again on NR and F*ck SM up!

I totally agree with the part about No Redemption and Golden Boy feeling almost a full number grade apart!!!