Sporty sport lines allowed?
Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?
Agreed. Are we climbing rocks or running a babysitting service here?
Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?
Well put!pigsteak wrote: personally when I bolt the line my primary question to myself is: how will a climber who is totally confident/competent and comfortable at this grade feel about the line. ..... if the grade is within your comfort range, expect to be pleased with the balance of the entire experience.
Thanks for the hard work involved with putting up routes you guys!
- climb2core
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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?
I love the little extra air you get and commitment, assuming it does not end on the ground or a ledge. Soul Ram comes to mind as that type of route. Bolts are maybe 10 or 12 feet apart? That is pretty much vertical and falls are non issue with a soft catch.
However, gratuitous bolting does have its place for people learning how to lead and fall. I would say keep them closer together if the character the wall is more beginner to lower intermediate (5.8 to 5.10). So maybe keep places like Left Field and the Playground closer together but not so much at the warm up routes at the Darkside or Brightside.
For climbs getting into 5.11 or above... you should know how to fall by then. Space it out unless it is a wall like Great wall that attracts the gumbies with the 5.6 to 5.10 range.
However, gratuitous bolting does have its place for people learning how to lead and fall. I would say keep them closer together if the character the wall is more beginner to lower intermediate (5.8 to 5.10). So maybe keep places like Left Field and the Playground closer together but not so much at the warm up routes at the Darkside or Brightside.
For climbs getting into 5.11 or above... you should know how to fall by then. Space it out unless it is a wall like Great wall that attracts the gumbies with the 5.6 to 5.10 range.
Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?
SEARCH FUNCTION N00B!!!!!111pigsteak wrote:With the recent comments about "bad bolting jobs" I was wondering what all the chode chuffers on here thought. Is there room for sporty sport lines? Is it the job of the developer to make your experience stress free? We hate the perma police but then we demand that certain sport lines be fixed....
Do mixed lines also have to follow this protocol? If my bolts are perfectly placed but you suck at placing gear and deck, is that my fault?
Why not bring a bit of sauce back to the game? Climbers should always have the option of down climbing.
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... =5&t=14891
The guy who posted this thread seems to have some very informative opinions on this topic. Maybe you could even send him a PM to discuss more?
faceholdonacrackclimbDAB!
- climb2core
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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?
Nick, changed my mind. Like I said before, you are not worth responding to.
Last edited by climb2core on Wed Nov 28, 2012 4:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?
All this said, I noticed that many of the lines in the guidebook don't list the equipper and only the FA (sometimes not the same person). I'm more interested in the bolting rather than the person who sent, although both pieces of info are relevant.
Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?
i appreciate Dustin's review of the current meanings of the various styles and whatnot, i guess i still kind of go by the Bachar-Yerian standard and would consider that a 'sport' route, which i guess would be a 'traditional' sport route as opposed to the nouveau 'sport' route?
training is for people who care, i have a job.
Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?
You gotta love this site!climb2core wrote:Nick, you rock! Your memes make me look cool... Can I hire you to design my next facebook page?
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?
Nick, I have a huge man crush on you...