OK?

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

Is it alright if Kevin Wilkinson manufactures routes at the Red?

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climb2core
Posts: 2224
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm

Re: OK?

Post by climb2core »

They are at Lagos Linda's. I can send you his lot number. Bet Rene would have their number
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climb2core
Posts: 2224
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm

Re: OK?

Post by climb2core »

pigsteak wrote:
climb2core wrote:Funny, sounds like the Developer police are out. ;)
yes, you cover permas, we got this one;)

You really need a FB page
anborn
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:10 am

Re: OK?

Post by anborn »

ynp1 wrote:I hit yes when I wanted to hit no... Sorry. Most of the time yes is on top and no is on bottom and I just hit the wrong button. Carry on!
this.
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clif
Posts: 1731
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:24 pm

Re: OK?

Post by clif »

alrighty. read most of Ramsey's piece. i can suggest a few counter arguments but am not willing to go for the academic formulation. do we need to petition the Moderators to fix ynp1's vote first?
training is for people who care, i have a job.
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ynp1
Posts: 1324
Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 10:54 pm

Re: OK?

Post by ynp1 »

I am such a fuck up!

But I have chipped many cracks! Every time I climb el cap I pound pitons into the cracks which does modify the crack. Then people like Tommy C. come around and free climb it. I climbed mescalito, and I am sure Tommy is thankful for my additions, but I guess I didn't do enough... Still unsent...

Aid climbing is the purest form of chipping!

Wow, I really needed to get that off my chest. Thanks for listening and I will finally be able to sleep tonight.
I don't have haters, I have fans in denial.
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Re: OK?

Post by Andrew »

pigsteak wrote:as developers here know, removing the outside layer of the rock here at the red is a dangerous proposition. 9 times out of ten what you have is a very sandy layer that will never clean up.... but I have glued (sorry, reinforced) two holds in my life in order that two particular holds stay attached to the wall. that was a pretty grey area for me, so actually 'creating" handholds (for me) is not even close to grey.....then again, I have liberally "tapped" edges to sanitize sharp holds, so perhaps I am back in the grey area.....
What kind of manufacturing occurred for Kong?
Living the dream
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climb2core
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Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm

Re: OK?

Post by climb2core »

Kong? Not one I would have picked for manufactured. I would be surprised to find differently.
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Re: OK?

Post by pigsteak »

andrew, that is one of the two....and hence the blurry lines of "manufacturing" that the article speaks of. and a good lesson...the big flake at the crux had broken off on its own. what was left i felt was needed in order for the move to still go in my ability range. I chose to reinforce it with glue...that is the extent of the "manufacturing" if that qualifies. I would not make that same decision again.

what do you think..is gluing any different than physically creating holds to make something go? in my mind it is, but perhaps I am jaded. to outsiders it seems so black and white....anyone with much experience knows otherwise.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Andrew
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Re: OK?

Post by Andrew »

Sorry kipp I was really just wanting to hear the story of Kong again, but you do raise a good point. If cleaning or gluing loose rock is considered manufacturing then every damn sport route at the red is manufactured.

What about when you knock off a loose hold and to your surprise a better hold is made? What about removing loose flakes out of the inside of a horizontal that produces a jug?
Living the dream
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tbwilsonky
Posts: 868
Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 9:38 pm

Re: OK?

Post by tbwilsonky »

it's not an ethic. it's an aesthetic. nobody gives a shit so long as they can't see the extra 'work'.
haunted.
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