Ondra Patrol

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Spikeddem
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2011 1:08 am

Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by Spikeddem »

Andrew wrote:
der uber wrote:
Andrew wrote:AO bolting job on his right project on the Golden Ticket wall is a mess. I am all for people developing, but damn... I hope he fixes it soon.
how about that heavily protected 4th-5th-6th bolt section. I'm skipping a couple when I am on point.
exactly
Sounds like the 1st-26th bolt at the bronaugh wall
kafish2
Posts: 355
Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2004 3:36 am

Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by kafish2 »

He was setting it up as a lower anchor option for us weaklings. To first set of anchors 5.14 and to second is a 15.
User avatar
pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by pigsteak »

Did anyone tell him to plug the old holes?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
User avatar
bcombs
Posts: 2048
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 4:20 pm

Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by bcombs »

Perhaps there are so many bolts because there is an intention to skip some, but which ones are unknown? I always wonder when watching Sharma or whoever climb and they skip bolt after bolt in what seems like hard moves, presumably too hard to clip. Did they find out they were too hard to clip the hard way or just plug the whole wall and then figure it out later once the sequences are worked out?

I have to smile thinking about what is being referred to as the clipping jug on the route. :lol:
User avatar
bcombs
Posts: 2048
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 4:20 pm

Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by bcombs »

Oh, and Piggie. Are you in your car posting to RRC from Rodeo Drive? I hope its an iPhone or you might get spit on.
User avatar
climb2core
Posts: 2224
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm

Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by climb2core »

Ha ha.. that is funny, cause I had the exact same picture in my mind. Except he can't be in the car doing it because he is paying the valet $2.75 every 15 minutes to have his car parked. He is leaning up against some wall, by a store that his better half is in.
User avatar
ynp1
Posts: 1324
Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 10:54 pm

Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by ynp1 »

They put the bolts every 3 feet because the route are so steep they have to do them ground up, or if they are rap bolting them they also have to place them closely together so they stay close to the wall, and with in arms reach.

When they first bolted the mother load they did many of them ground up. They would place a bolt, then a rivet ( which I think many are still in the rock). The rivet is still putting a hole in the rock, but it is much smaller and quicker.

I do think it is funny to see all these new routes that are futuristic and the bolts are way closer together then many bolt ladders I have climbed...
I don't have haters, I have fans in denial.
dustonian
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by dustonian »

Yep, on routes that hard there is no gear to place for directionals or intermediate bodyweight pieces, and you sure as hell don't want to try to hook on what may be one of the only holds in a particular section. Ondra was using RBs between the pro bolts he left as well.
Post Reply