Trad Talk... If you're in to that sort of thing...

[the midas touch 123]

@dustonian...

I am really interested to hear your thoughts on the second half of my questionnaire...

-On a similar note, how accurate do you find the star rating system specifically regarding trad routes?
I am wondering how many lovely gems there are out there, with 0 stars and/or 0 votes to their name?

-Or better yet... How many fantastic trad routes out there do you think have yet to even see a second ascent?

[dustonian]

The star ratings are kind of all over the map, but generally speaking if it gets 0 or 1 stars in the book it is probably going to be pretty damn dirty. That said, I'm sure there are a few exceptions, and hey, some of us like it dirty. There are lots of great trad routes out there that haven't had 2nd ascents, but few of those are in the guidebook. I know Joe Taylor has put up a few. Tower of Power & Here Comes Batman waited almost 30 years for a repeat, and Bloodline at Long Wall and Andrew Gearing's 13/14- routes also come to mind, although one guy is very close on Bloodline and another almost sent Sacred Geometry. Anyway, there are lots of great trad routes out there that haven't had first ascents either, for that matter!

[the midas touch 123]

Hell to the Yeah.. I'm picking up what you're putting down..

[monty4355]

I am suprised "Diamond in the Crack" has not been mentioned yet as an amazing moderate.

A crack that I thought was really good but never climbed is "Full Moon" out at Half Moon. I would have given it 5 stars had the bottom been a bit cleaner.

[dustonian]

Whiteout Direct, Casual Viewing, and Vision also come to mind. I also thought the newer route Off With Batman was really good if you're into OWs. All the classics at Tower Rock are great. Windy Corner at Torrent. A new 10 Cromper and I just did at Beer Trailer right side called Delirum Tremens. And of course, Roadside Attraction, Five-Finger Discount, and Andromeda Strain, if only...

[AndyB]

I agree with Casual Viewing and Vision at Global Village and would add Party Time (2 pitches) at Fortress Wall...

[pigsteak]

yawn...shouldnt you boys be training to climb some hard sport lines?

[dustonian]

more "sport versus trad" bait wanking? yawn indeed.

[the midas touch 123]

extremely curious if anyone has ever had any experience with one of these???

http://www.trango.com/slings_webbing/alpine-equalizer-6'

[toad857]

Nope. To me, simplicity is your biggest ally in anchor building... and that thing looks complicated.