The ongoing weekend idiot report

Access, Rehab Projects, Derbyfests and more...
CLIMBTRAD
Posts: 171
Joined: Fri May 16, 2008 2:57 pm

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by CLIMBTRAD »

At least ya tried..
Rebolting the RED one stainless steel glue in bolt at a time!!
JeffCastro
Posts: 84
Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 4:30 am

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by JeffCastro »

I saw a guy this Sunday ask for slack to clip the third bolt when his belayer noticed an overhand knot that wouldn't pass through his atc. The guy had to down climb unclipping the bolts as he went. When he went back up I saw him take a 15ft fall on slab with his chest at the bolt he had just clipped. I tried to gently talk to the belayer about leaving out that much slack but I was told that he preferred to not feel tension on the rope when he went to clip.
ATC
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:18 pm

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by ATC »

POST!
User avatar
pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by pigsteak »

sport climbing is so 2009...no one clips bolts anymore..all the gumballs are out plugging gear these days...and only have transistor radios for communicating.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
User avatar
krampus
Posts: 3933
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:31 am

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by krampus »

cant say I've had any gumby experiences while trad climbing this summer
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
User avatar
climb2core
Posts: 2224
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by climb2core »

Last night a guy was climbing on the lead wall at my gym. He got to the second draw and cut both feet, chalked his clipping hand, (why chalk before clipping I will never know), and then clipped. He then proceeded to third draw where he barely clipped and then fell. It was on the easy lead route. He lowered rested, and.... repeated exactly the same thing. I left, but was told he went again and managed to get the rope behind his leg when he fell and he flipped upside down.

Now I am not being a snob and bringing it up because he couldn't do the jug haul. But maybe he ought to save the Cliff Hanger moves until he can at least finish the route.

And unbelievably, I have not had any good outside stories to share this year. But I still have yet to see Caribe outside this fall ;)
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Andrew »

krampus wrote:cant say I've had any gumby experiences while trad climbing this summer
Are you sure. Isn't trad climbing inherently a gumby experience
Living the dream
dustonian
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by dustonian »

Andrew wrote:
krampus wrote:cant say I've had any gumby experiences while trad climbing this summer
Are you sure. Isn't trad climbing inherently a gumby experience
Maybe when you do it. Joel is hardcore.
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Andrew »

lol maybe.
Living the dream
Yasmeen
Posts: 4663
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am

Re: The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by Yasmeen »

climb2core wrote:Last night a guy was climbing on the lead wall at my gym. He got to the second draw and cut both feet, chalked his clipping hand, (why chalk before clipping I will never know), and then clipped. He then proceeded to third draw where he barely clipped and then fell. It was on the easy lead route. He lowered rested, and.... repeated exactly the same thing. I left, but was told he went again and managed to get the rope behind his leg when he fell and he flipped upside down.
And someone caught it all on video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69MowsWiXf0
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
---
(Emails > PMs)
Post Reply