A new Sith Lord?

[climb2core]

Sport climbing is about finding the line of least resistance from the start to the top. For example, using a hueco that is close to on route. Now lets say, you do use that hueco. Should you sit on your ass to climb out of it because it adds cool movements? You could, but IMO it is adding just another level of contrived to an already contrived sport.

Now that being said, sit down on your ass if you want. After that I will meet you at Miguels, I will be wearing a Metolius harness.

[dustonian]

My personal feeling is that sit starts add contrivance to that particular route up rock mountain. For the same reason that sport routes that feel "forced" into harder sequences are generally considered not as quality as those that follow more natural lines of least resistance (Veruca Salt and apparently Dagobah, although the top is not at all cruxy and I was just trying to avoid choss and sand). This is also why Death Star is considered low quality--because it is forced up the line of most resistance with two easier options on both sides within easy reach. No doubt it would be a 5-star line if the neighboring routes were not accessible from the line. If you do a sit-start, you are consciously avoiding the fact that you could start that route an easier way from holds within reach... if only you would use your legs. A lot of "modern bouldering" comes off as silly to the un-indoctrinated, because of all specificity of rules like "start here matched" "no not there one hold lower" "no that neighboring boulder is off" "no you can't use that hold when you top out" "hey brah you dabbed" etc etc.

That said, if you think the sit-start is fun and want to do it, by all means plop your ass down in the dirt and cigarette butts.

[tbwilsonky]

thank you

i'm clearly not planning on laying siege to the Red's worm-burner plums, but i've been trying this really hard sit into Sluts are Cool and was just curious about how all 5 people on this board felt about it.

[camhead]

Sport climbing is about finding the line of least resistance from the start to the top.

Uhh... no. The lines of least resistance to the top of the cliffline are usually the ugly wide 5.7 choss gullies that nobody ever climbs.

[dustonian]

... i've been trying this really hard sit into Sluts are Cool and was just curious about how all 5 people on this board felt about it.

LOL!

starting low on Sluts are Cool seems somewhat more reasonable since it is a short bouldery line to begin with and the crux is played out pretty early on, so it would add a few moves leading right into the crux. Still, I would personally never do it and that dank little area is wet half the year. Seems like on 90% of RRG routes the worst rock is in the first 10 feet another reason to start as "high" as possible... but then, I am a total pussy when it comes to bouldering so maybe I just don't appreciate the joy of sitting down as much as some. Not to mention I'm old and it makes my lower back hurt.

[tbwilsonky]

i'm not 'seriously' trying it (I don't have a film crew). it's just a low cost way to get my fingers warmed up for the crux on Falls City (see what i did there).

but the rock is bomber and the moves are wicked hard and - you know - i'm gonna want my points if it goes.

and for some reason a sit into Sluts are Cool really did just strike me as the most brilliant thing ever.

[graniteclimber]

Sit starts are the dumbest things ever. Start with your butt in the dirt? What other sports do that? Lifting my ass out of bed is the crux of my day already.

Back to the topic here... refreshing to hear about a no spray ascent of a hyped project and then as the final insult, has a relatively pedestrian grade hung on it. ha ha!!

I still think that if you guys at the Red wanted to cull the heavy spray and chuff that shows up twice a year, you'd dock every route two letters. Then the Red would no longer be the crag where anyone can be a hero and the crowd would be trimmed in half.

[tbwilsonky]

Sit starts are the dumbest things ever. Start with your butt in the dirt? What other sports do that? Lifting my ass out of bed is the crux of my day already.

exquisite prose. illuminating insight. a real tour de force.

[climb2core]

Sport climbing is about finding the line of least resistance from the start to the top.

Uhh... no. The lines of least resistance to the top of the cliffline are usually the ugly wide 5.7 choss gullies that nobody ever climbs.

Uhh... yes. I was talking about THE line of least resistance for A climb (singular). Of course some lines (talking plural now) are easier than others. But any given line (singular again) should ideally offer a reasonably straight path from the ground to the top using the easiest holds along the way and it does not involve the 5.7 choss gulley at the end of the crag, unless of course that is THE line that you are talking about.

I had expected more from you camhead.

[dustonian]

Actually most of those choss gullies are more like 9+ and way better than they look