Slimy Creatures Beta

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
MarkM
Posts: 30
Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:17 pm

Slimy Creatures Beta

Post by MarkM »

I was wondering if anyone could help me with some beta on Slimy Creatures. The guidebook says 70M to rap, I was wondering if there would be any way of setting up a TR after leading so a beginner in my group could climb this. I have a 60M rope so I am guessing it would have to be somewhere other than the main rap tree. Any help would be much appreciated.
dustonian
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: Slimy Creatures Beta

Post by dustonian »

2 ropes? There are very few routes in the Red that actually require a true 70m rope, but maybe this is one of them? Wolf and ynot seem to think you do tho, I trust them:

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... ute&id=521

Maybe you could use the lower tree anchor (bring your own webbing/cordelette), making sure to back it up with an equalized piece or two at around the same level. Two ropes may be the way to go in lieu of a 70m.
crazyhair
Posts: 88
Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 11:36 pm

Re: Slimy Creatures Beta

Post by crazyhair »

There's two different places to rap/belay from- one is about 15 feet lower than the other. I'm pretty sure when Wolf and I did it with his 70M we were on the higher spot, but there was still enough extra rope to feasibly have done it with a 60 from the lower tree. I would say- use your 60 and belay from the first tree, but bring your own webbing because the stuff there is NOT usable (as you should assume with all "found" webbing).
MarkM
Posts: 30
Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:17 pm

Re: Slimy Creatures Beta

Post by MarkM »

Awesome! Thanks guys
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ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Re: Slimy Creatures Beta

Post by ynot »

That first tree was pretty wimpy. I wasn't about to rap from it. last time I was up there someone had. there were slings. it's your ass. just take 2 60's and use the good tree. oh and,the route is cool as hell. needs more stars and traffic.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
KD
Posts: 3155
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 1:21 am

Re: Slimy Creatures Beta

Post by KD »

When I did it a few years ago it took two ropes, I dont know of a lower place, we went off of a little tree that was kind of questionable. Why dont you rope the new person in the middle of your group and them second or unclip and have your belayer second. The crack is so big that they really cant fall if I remember correctly.
MarkM
Posts: 30
Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:17 pm

Re: Slimy Creatures Beta

Post by MarkM »

Any one have an educated guess wether this route would be dry today. After rain last night?
dustonian
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: Slimy Creatures Beta

Post by dustonian »

Probably "slimy"... plus its supposed to rain again. But you might get lucky if ya know what I mean.
MarkM
Posts: 30
Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:17 pm

Re: Slimy Creatures Beta

Post by MarkM »

We got lucky, know whatcha mean.
dustonian
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: Slimy Creatures Beta

Post by dustonian »

MarkM wrote:We got lucky, know whatcha mean.
Hope you used protection... ;)

So would a 60m rope have made it to the ground from the upper tree?
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