Climbing Around Colorado Springs

[The3rdear]

Hey folks, I recently got a new job and my wife and I will be moving to Colorado Springs in two weeks! I've only been out there for the interview, but that was enough to get me pumped about the move. One of the things I will miss most about The Midwest is climbing at The Red, but I'm sure there will be plenty to keep me busy out there. I've done a little research, and see that the main areas are Shelf Road, Red Rock Canyon, and Garden of the Gods. Has anyone ever climbed at these areas and have any advice or comments to offer? I'm not expecting anything like The Red, but I hear Shelf is pretty good. If you have any other comments for a young couple moving to Colorado Springs, let me know. Thanks.

[pigsteak]

if you love the Red, all of those places will suck royally. Lived in CS myself, and moving back here was the best move for sport climbing, hands down. Enjoy all the other things life has to offer in Colorado, because sport climbing is not one of them.

[dustonian]

Red Rock Canyon? You mean the music venue near Denver?

Trad is where it's at on the front range... lots of world-class areas. The sport climbing is pretty lackluster. Shelf is fairly decent.

[milspecmark]

The Sport Climbing in Boulder Canyon is awsome. I think it is an hour and 45 min drive from Colorado springs but you will love it.

[The3rdear]

Haha, thanks pigsteak. I guess I'll have to get into backpacking...or trad climbing.

@ Dustin:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Nort ... ck_Canyon/

Sounds like a newer place right near town.

[pigsteak]

again, that place is very mediocre to average....I have friends who live right at the mouth of red rocks and they rarely climb there. you think our sandstone is soft...wait until you touch this stuff. it is almost all slabby, if you are into that sort of thing. but the trad is superb in colorado..switch gears for sure.

[goodguy]

CS is pretty cool. Pueblo is close and there are some really cool towers down there. Also, Shelf Road isn't too far and it's good sport climbing on bullet hard limestone, not to mention the drive out there is awesome. Keep in mind, John Gill lives in Pueblo so if it's good enough for him you should love it!

[The3rdear]

if you love the Red, all of those places will suck royally. Lived in CS myself, and moving back here was the best move for sport climbing, hands down. Enjoy all the other things life has to offer in Colorado, because sport climbing is not one of them.

I understand that these places won't hold a candle to The Red. In fact, I think I'd be setting myself up for major dissappointment if I expect to find anything like The Red out there. But is Shelf a worthy enough destination of it's own? Is it a good enough place to be motivated to go often and project different routes? Also, how about Rifle? I've heard a lot about it, but have never been. Would it warrant driving like 10 hours in one weekend to climb there? (I'm an 11 climber)

I know the best answer is "Find out for yourself in two weeks", but humor me. I need something to do/think about the last few days of this job. Thanks.

[pigsteak]

Shelf is mostly vert limestone. You will have a grand time there in your climbing range. Limestone can feel sharp and "pockety" when you first climb on it, so be forewarned. If you climb 11s at the top, Rifle is not the place for you to go. You'll enjoy the area for sure....

[milspecmark]

Did you not look at boulder canyon. You can find it on rockclimbing.com