Excalibur
Excalibur
Has anyone climbed "Excalibur" and could shed some light? Is the crux directly above the belay anchors on the third pitch and would a fall off the crux result in a huge fall factor on the rope/belay station? I heard the crux has no pro off the second belay and consists of insecure stemming.
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- Posts: 1566
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:22 am
t bone has climbed this route before. I think this is the route he was explaining to me last night (right?). I think the first pitch is the crux? (10d?) The next two pitches are easy trad. On the second or third pitch there is only one placement for gear and you have to do this grab at the knees undercling thingy...
Anyhow, there is a pic of t bone on Excalibur, it is in the trad section of the photo album.
Anyhow, there is a pic of t bone on Excalibur, it is in the trad section of the photo album.
Not a bitch.
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- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
Watch out for the belay, someone pulled out the anchor, a guy named Arthur I think?
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
2nd pitch is the crux 10b or so. the gear was allright. the last pitch is 5.5 gear is little funky. otherwise it is a great route. there is a lone bolt in the middle of the route. It is worthless, i did not even use it. use your gear and do hanging belay.1st pitch is 5.8.The view and the top out are stellar.