Excalibur

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
TradMike
Posts: 1173
Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Excalibur

Post by TradMike »

Has anyone climbed "Excalibur" and could shed some light? Is the crux directly above the belay anchors on the third pitch and would a fall off the crux result in a huge fall factor on the rope/belay station? I heard the crux has no pro off the second belay and consists of insecure stemming.
Christian
Posts: 1722
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Christian »

I think the anchor is a broadsword embedded in the rock. please forgive me it's the caffeine again :|
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu
Christian
Posts: 1722
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Christian »

Oh wow I was just promoted to an LW. :shock:
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu
Eric
Posts: 418
Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2003 10:04 pm

Post by Eric »

Excalibur is an awesome route, and the crux is toward the top, but is over pretty quick.
"But what is happiness except the simple harmony between a man and the life he leads?" – Lord Byron
andy_lemon
Posts: 1566
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:22 am

Post by andy_lemon »

t bone has climbed this route before. I think this is the route he was explaining to me last night (right?). I think the first pitch is the crux? (10d?) The next two pitches are easy trad. On the second or third pitch there is only one placement for gear and you have to do this grab at the knees undercling thingy...

Anyhow, there is a pic of t bone on Excalibur, it is in the trad section of the photo album.
Not a bitch.
captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

Watch out for the belay, someone pulled out the anchor, a guy named Arthur I think?
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
t bone
Posts: 455
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 10:56 pm

Post by t bone »

2nd pitch is the crux 10b or so. the gear was allright. the last pitch is 5.5 gear is little funky. otherwise it is a great route. there is a lone bolt in the middle of the route. It is worthless, i did not even use it. use your gear and do hanging belay.1st pitch is 5.8.The view and the top out are stellar.
TradMike
Posts: 1173
Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Post by TradMike »

Thanks for the beta. Sounds like I've got my next adventure climb chosen.
tomdarch
Posts: 2407
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2002 9:22 pm

Post by tomdarch »

Huh? I can't find anything in the online guidebook - is this just some sort of delayed April 1st thing?
Bacon is meat candy.
User avatar
ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

It's in the guidbook. Which pitch gets the R? sounds like a cool route.I would love to follow it.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
Post Reply