Preseason injury

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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steep4me
Posts: 614
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2003 6:18 pm

Re: Preseason injury

Post by steep4me »

Hahahahaha.......HA! I will try rubbing with my knuckles avoiding the bony bump right now.
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
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SCIN
Posts: 4932
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Re: Preseason injury

Post by SCIN »

Freakin hilarious toad! Genius!
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
KD
Posts: 3155
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 1:21 am

Re: Preseason injury

Post by KD »

Even though that is so tempting, I will not stoop to that level and fill in those blanks with nasty stuff.
Even though that is so tempting, I will not stoop to that level and fill in those blanks with nasty stuff.
Even though that is so tempting, I will not stoop to that level and fill in those blanks with nasty stuff.
Even though that is so tempting, I will not stoop to that level and fill in those blanks with nasty stuff.
Even though that is so tempting, I will not stoop to that level and fill in those blanks with nasty stuff.
Even though that is so tempting, I will not stoop to that level and fill in those blanks with nasty stuff.
Even though that is so tempting, I will not stoop to that level and fill in those blanks with nasty stuff.
Even though that is so tempting, I will not stoop to that level and fill in those blanks with nasty stuff.
Even though that is so tempting, I will not stoop to that level and fill in those blanks with nasty stuff.
Even though that is so tempting, I will not stoop to that level and fill in those blanks with nasty stuff.
captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Re: Preseason injury

Post by captain static »

Here, I'll translate for you.
SCIN wrote:Horatio and I hadn't been climbing much, so over the last 8 months we have taken up golfing. At first we didn't have any issues and it was a good way for us to enjoy participating in another outdoor sport together. Then, after the first couple of weeks of playing golf together Horatio shanked a ball that hit me in the nuts. After a few days the pain subsided but one night after I pleasured myself the pain came back and wouldn't go away. It wasn't until Horatio started coming over and doing a very specific massage on my private parts every night for 10-15 minutes that it has almost completely gone away. Before that I tried every trick on the market (self-massage, vibrators, etc.). Each night he puts lotion on my member and rubs up and back down with the back of his knuckles. He uses pretty firm pressure. I'm not sure why it works but my theory is it relaxes the sphincter muscle which eases the tension on the scrotum. With this technique he doesn't even touch the bony bump created by the golf ball strike where the pain is. In addition it's a chill way to spend an evening togehter after we have played a tough round of 18 holes.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
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clif
Posts: 1731
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:24 pm

Re: Preseason injury

Post by clif »

i have a suggestion for a new vendor booth at this year's Octoberfest.
training is for people who care, i have a job.
dustonian
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: Preseason injury

Post by dustonian »

SCIN wrote:Horatio and I hadn't been climbing much, so over the last 8 months we have taken up golfing. At first we didn't have any issues and it was a good way for us to enjoy participating in another outdoor sport together. Then, after the first couple of weeks of playing golf together Horatio shanked a ball that hit me in the nuts. After a few days the pain subsided but one night after I pleasured myself the pain came back and wouldn't go away. It wasn't until Horatio started coming over and doing a very specific massage on my private parts every night for 10-15 minutes that it has almost completely gone away. Before that I tried every trick on the market (self-massage, vibrators, etc.). Each night he puts lotion on my member and rubs up and back down with the back of his knuckles. He uses pretty firm pressure. I'm not sure why it works but my theory is it relaxes the sphincter muscle which eases the tension on the scrotum. With this technique he doesn't even touch the bony bump created by the golf ball strike where the pain is. In addition it's a chill way to spend an evening togehter after we have played a tough round of 18 holes.
So good I just had to quote it.
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climb2core
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Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm

Re: Preseason injury

Post by climb2core »

I will throw my 2 cents into the ring. I am an outpatient PT and see a lot of people for Tennis Elbow, including some climbers. I have been surprised at how weak the forearm muscles are after it has become chronic in nature. Here is what I typically do with my patients:

1.) Stop climbing hard, but don't stop climbing. You have to stress the tissue to get healing and remodeling but do it within your "physiological envelope of stress". Basically the connective tissue (collagen) in your elbow has been over stressed and is disrupted. Gradual stress will allow for promotes tissue growth and remodeling of the collagen fibers. Find the happy medium and your tolerance will gradually increase. Give yourself a couple of rest days after climbing to allow for healing and remodeling.

2.) If you have insurance, get some formal PT to help the healing process. I do ultrasound to increase the blood flow to the tissue followed by aggressive cross friction massage. However, I only do the aggressive cross frictions for the first 4 or 5 visits as I am trying to basically aggravate the tissue and get a healing response to start again. The problem with the chronic tendonitis is that basically the healing process stalls out and needs to be started again. I also do Iontophoresis with Dexamethasone (steroid anti-inflammatory). This is basically a topical patch put on your elbow that uses electricity to drive the medication down into the tendon. I have also done Hi Volt Electrical Stimulation with cold.

3.) Strengthen all forearm and hand muscles, both agonist and antagonist. Normally I start light and then progress to heavier. I have found the heavy eccentric curls that Vertical1 was talking about are effective after some healing has occurred.

4.) Do ice it. I prefer direct ice for 8 minutes. Take a Styrofoam cup and freeze water in it. Rip of the edge of the cup to expose the ice and flip it over to use. Ice 2-3 times per day.

5.) Consider using a fore-arm counterforce brace during the climbing. If you are doing lots of mouse/keyboard work, a basic wrist brace will immobilize the wrist joint and take stress off the elbow. Good workspace ergonomics are important because you want to have your wrist in a neutral position. Consider getting a thumb driven mouse.

6.) I have also found a round of consistent use of NSAIDs to also be effective. Not a doctor so I wouldn't prescribe anything to anyone. But I have heard people taking 2 x 200 mg of Advil 4-5 times per day. If you need a script to go to PT, ask your doctor.

Not sure where you live, but I am sure I could help you find a good PT in your area.

Good luck.
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steep4me
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2003 6:18 pm

Re: Preseason injury

Post by steep4me »

Thanks! I am icing, climbing easy stuff, massaging, doing forearm exercises, redoing the ergonomics of my work station, sleeping in wrist braces so as not to curl my arms up at night. I think it is helping.
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
Andrew
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Re: Preseason injury

Post by Andrew »

Anyone know anything about climbing with a broken rib.
Living the dream
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climb2core
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Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm

Re: Preseason injury

Post by climb2core »

Pain is your limitation.
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