Trying to understand the bolter's mind...

[JR]

Lena I am with you on this one. I often wonder why things get bolted. My bet is that we could come up with plenty reasons for any route not being bolted...

However, it is pretty easy to figure out that this route was worth it to someone. I have always believed in the line "it is worth exactly how much someone is willing to pay".

[Meadows]

Does anybody ever go to a crag that has only one climb in the grade range they want, and the climb is crappy? Not anyone I know... I just don't see 5.10 climbers making a hike to the 'lode to climb one route, when they can go to places with several better-quality 5.10s.

I haven't read the rest of the thread so forgive me if this is a repeat comment: apparently you haven't seen the hoards of 5.9 to 5.10 climbers lined up just for the one move wonder Injured Reserve (11a).

However, I was one of them eight years ago when the only partner I could find wanted to spend the day at the Lode. I had to climb something!

[Meadows]

lol...I see we posted at the same time but you see my point..the undertow wall is waaaaay over rated.

Hmmm ... maybe try climbing something other than Chainsaw.

[dustonian]

Have to agree, the Lode remains the best sport crag in the Red. The left side of the crag delivers the techy goodness, and despite much ill-informed speculation and sour-grapes mewling, the Undertow has tons of variety of movement. Plus, it's hard to beat Snooker and 8-ball (and probably White Man's) for impeccable bullet orange stone... and damn does Transworld Depravity look amazing!

[tbwilsonky]

lol...I see we posted at the same time but you see my point..the undertow wall is waaaaay over rated.

Hmmm ... maybe try climbing something other than Chainsaw.

aw snap.

[toad857]

Have to agree, the Lode remains the best sport crag in the Red.

Clearly you have never been to the Land-Before-Time wall.

[EricDorsey]

You have way to much time on your hands, I hope you arent losing too much sleep over this...

[jobryan]

Yeah... I bolted the route back in the spring/summer of 2011. I had looked at bolting this line for a few weeks before I bolted the line. I enjoy climbing slab climbs regardless of the grade. The Lode is a great cliff but subjectively lacking in slab climbs and easier warm ups. Most people climbing at the Lode won't need a 10 warm up but some do. My partner and I spent our money, time and energy bolting and cleaning this route. It's not a grid bolting job. It's not at a trad only area. It's not in a closed climbing area. So my question is, why does anyone care if it gets bolted? Is the route so bad that it takes away from a climber's experience at the Lode? Creating a route outside isn't the same as creating a route in a gym. I didn't make the route dirty or even make the route. Bolted or unbolted, climbed or unclimbed, it is still going to be the same section of rock.

We named the route 'The Cream Machine", FA Josh O'Bryan and John Seymer 2011. If you don't like slab routes you probably won't like the route. I give it three stars. The rock is solid for sandstone and the crux is coming out of a no hands.

[CLIMBTRAD]

Thanks for the hard work Josh..

[pigsteak]

agreed...thanks Josh!