Preseason injury

[KD]

I am inclined to believe that computers and keyboard ergonomics have almost as much to do with tennis and golfers as climbing does. When mine flared up I was roofing my home gym, working at the keyboard a lot and climbing. PTs had me use rolling forearm excercises, light weight forearm curls form all positions, and thera bands. They also had this shock thing that they used (not a tens) that shocked medicine into my elbows and ultra sound therapy. Insurance paid it all almost. Rest on top of that will hopefully keep it at bay.

[steep4me]

It is funny you should mention that. My finger pain last season and elbows this time....all started after I took a part-time job that involves reading on the computer, typing, sitting in a bad chair all day. Never had these problems before that. Although I don't really have time to go to pt, with two jobs and driving to the red every weekend. I will try to amp up the exercises.

[dustonian]

Get a better chair, or at least a back support. Many of these "migrating injuries" actually originate in the spine.

[vertical1]

sleeping in wrist braces just keeps the tendons tight. Do the heavy eccentric palm up wrist curls and you will notice a difference very quickly.

[steep4me]

ok, I will try your suggestions....thanks!

[bcombs]

I've had several people suggest a Flexbar from Thera-Band in the past. It didn't work for me but that was because it turned out that I had biceps tendonitis and I'm just an idiot that couldn't describe the condition accurately.

http://www.thera-band.com/index.php

[toad857]

No amount of posting on RRC.com will make your injury go away.

My advice is to suck it up and climb some easier routes.

[SCIN]

I had to take 8 months off due to golfer's elbow and some additional shoulder issues. The golfer's elbow pain never went away but became tolerable. A couple of weeks after climbing again it came back. It wasn't until I started doing a very specific massage on my forearm every night for 10-15 minutes that it has almost completely gone away. Before that I tried every trick on the market (therebar, arm-aid, eccentrics, massage, etc.). Each night I put lotion on my forearm and beginning at my wrist rub up to my elbow and back down to my wrist with the back of my knuckles. I use pretty firm pressure. I'm not sure why it works but my theory is it relaxes the forearm muscle which eases the tension on the tendons. With this technique I don't even touch the bony bump where the pain is. In addition I've chilled out on bouldering hard on pinches since squeezing hard like that all the time isn't very good.

[toad857]

Each night I put lotion on my ________ and beginning at my ________ rub up to my ________ and back down to my ________ with the back of my knuckles. I use pretty firm pressure. I'm not sure why it ________ but my theory is it relaxes the ________ which eases the ________ on the ________. With this technique I don't even touch the bony ________ where the ________ is. In addition I've chilled out on ________ since squeezing hard like that all the time isn't very good.

Mad-libs, anyone?

[ynp1]

Toad, nice!