Lost 'n Lichen It

Post by **Danny** » Tue Oct 07, 2003 7:22 pm

The online guide says this is to the right of Calypso II but I think the book says it's the arete to the left. Anyway I tried climbing the choss to the left. I started on the Calypso II boulder and got a piece in just before the overhang. Then it's hard overhanging climbing up a thin crack. I couldn't place gear so I down climbed and went around to the left and managed to reach around and get in some crappy gear. Then I went up to a tiring side pull rest and managed to get in a crappy blue alien on which I hung. It looked like I might be able to get in gear about 15 feet above there so I climbed up this chossy thin flake to where the arete actually starts to the right. There was no gear and I was too pumped to place any anyway and too pumped to down climb so I wimpered that I was going to whip on that manky blue alien. Luckily I got a perfect catch missing the bulge I thought I'd land on and pounded into the face about 2 feet above the boulder. I'd had way more than enough so I climbed Calypso II and rapped off a half burned sassafras tree rooted in loose sand that started to erupt when I pushed on the tree. Was I on the right route or was I Lost'n not Lichen It?

Post by **t bone** » Tue Oct 07, 2003 7:35 pm

It is the arete just right of calypso III.

Post by **TexasK** » Tue Oct 07, 2003 7:41 pm

ray · Post by **ray** » Tue Oct 07, 2003 8:39 pm

What, you didn't like my joke?

Post by **Danny** » Tue Oct 07, 2003 9:45 pm

Is that your way of getting new sand covered 5.12 XXX routes put up?

Post by **ynot** » Tue Oct 07, 2003 10:13 pm

Jeez man, wouldnt toproping 5.10d R routes before you lead them be a bit safer?

Post by **andy_lemon** » Tue Oct 07, 2003 11:19 pm

Hence the name, "Lost 'n Lichen It"

Post by **Johnny** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 1:39 pm

Danny, I tried that route you were on many years ago and had to back off too. I ended up TRing it and it wasn't too bad, but to lead it would be quite dangerous. You really should TR Lost 'n Lichen It first since the holds and gear are tricky, but present.