Shamis wrote:Go do a long trad route sometime and you will realize that: it's common to not have sight of the climber for long periods of time, and you can't give a 'soft' catch when you're in a hanging belay.
1. That was probably the most odd use of punctuation I have seen.
2. Just because you sometimes cant see the climber you are belaying does not mean you should never bother to watch your climber.
Last edited by EricDorsey on Wed May 23, 2012 2:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
There are many ways to be a bad belayer, periodically looking down to rest your neck really isn't one of them. I suppose if you are deaf, or perhaps at a typical sport crag filled with barking dogs and blaring radios then you might have a case.
Shamis wrote:Sport climbers are pussies. Go do a long trad route sometime and you will realize that: it's common to not have sight of the climber for long periods of time, and you can't give a 'soft' catch when you're in a hanging belay.
Should a belayer watch you when possible? When near the ground, certainly the answer is yes, but after a bit it really doesn't matter much unless there are big ledges. And a soft catch is a nice luxury that isn't really necessary unless you're projecting stuff all day.
Tell him he has to watch you closely for the first 3 bolts, anything after that is fluff.
So... what, you are climbing on the yellow spur, or rosy crucifixion, or the bastille crack?? no shit you don't need a soft catch on any of those routes, people don't fall on trad climbs. Duh!
That's the most idiotic thing I have ever heard. Not to mention he is going to break your legs slamming you into the wall if you fall. If he can't muster up any more attention for belaying you, he should hit the road.
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
Also, if this is how he belays, I am sure that he is lazy and all about himself in the sack as well. No reason to ask if the sex is good--not possible with this guy's attitude!
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
Shamis wrote:There are many ways to be a bad belayer, periodically looking down to rest your neck really isn't one of them.
Pretty huge difference between "periodically looking down to rest your neck" and lead belaying sitting down with your back to the wall not watching the climber at all, which is what she originally posted... You would be a good politician.
