Advice to new climbers

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jakedatc
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Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2011 2:02 am

Re: Advice to new climbers

Post by jakedatc »

krampus wrote:
jakedatc wrote:Then he should post more details instead of leaving it pretty vague. Again, people who know the victim are watching these threads.
STFU
He never specified what accident he was talking about, it may or may not be this one. Who cares? what he posted was relevant no matter what happened where. Details are for gossip, quit being a little girl.
perhaps you should worry about your own local problems.. razor blade carabiners, Roadside, stolen shit at Muir, stolen fixed draws people voted to put up, fights at Motherlode....

how many folks decked out at the Red last year? yea, worry about your own shit.
toad857
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Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:31 pm

Re: Advice to new climbers

Post by toad857 »

jakedatc wrote: fights at Motherlode....
can we keep that one, though? it's kind of funny
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krampus
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Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:31 am

Re: Advice to new climbers

Post by krampus »

Whatever happened, it's a tragedy. Sorry for the loss. Hopefully we will learn from history.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
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climb2core
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Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm

Re: Advice to new climbers

Post by climb2core »

We are all a part of the climbing community, be it the Gunks or the Red. As such, when a tragedy occurs it touches close to home for all of us, as it could be one of "our own".

Hopefully, we can all learn something from this that may save someones life one day.
lena_chita
Posts: 347
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 9:48 pm

Re: Advice to new climbers

Post by lena_chita »

climb2core wrote:
BClear wrote:Regardless its a good point to make as it has killed climbers in the past. Frankly I had no idea a merchant could sell you a spliced piece of webbing if you asked for a specific length, and I'd venture to guess I'm not the only one who was oblivious.
+1
While I was aware of this, it still boggles my mind.

If I walk into the store wanting to by a 30ft length of webbing, I really DO want to buy a 30 ft piece of webbing, not a 20 ft piece and 10 ft piece.

It should be a policy of the stores that sell the gear that if they come across a splice site in the webbing while they are measuring a specific length for a customer, they should stop right there, and ask the customer if he/she is O.K. with it. I mean, for god's sake, FABRIC stores would do that, because they understand that if I asked for 2 yards, I mean that as contiguous 2-yard piece. Sure, for many cases it would be O.K. to get two 1-yard pieces, just like in many cases people would be fine with 10ft and 20ft, when they asked for 30 ft. But you HAVE to ask!!!
toad857
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Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:31 pm

Re: Advice to new climbers

Post by toad857 »

A lot of employees at outfitter stores have no idea what webbing & cord is used for, even though they are instructed how to use the cutting machine. They'll even recommend a harness for ya, without having any real experience. Same goes for a lot of belay "instructors".

As ever, the responsibility falls on the climber.
LK Day
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Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2010 1:47 am

Re: Advice to new climbers

Post by LK Day »

Believe it or not, the old masking tape splice has been an issue since FOREVER. In light of that, I believe the following is true.

1) Many climbers, especially beginners are remarkably trusting and uncurious about climbing gear.
2) One cannot count on clerks in outdoor stores to be aware of the significance of taped splices in the webbing they sell.

In light of the above, and while recognizing that climbers are ultimately responsible for their own safety, it is almost unbelievable that the hazard of taped splices still exists. NO MANUFACTURER OR DISTRIBUTOR of webbing should market any length of webbing containing a splice that is less than 100% as strong as the webbing is. If it is impossible to provide a proper splice then just stop filling the damned roll when the end of the webbing is reached. Mark the length and sell "as is". There should not be any goddamned taped splices out there, ever! It is simply an unnecessary and unacceptable hazard.
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pigsteak
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Re: Advice to new climbers

Post by pigsteak »

why is the splice such an issue for manufacturers? I only own two pieces of webbing today and they are both maybe 6 footer. not like people go out and buy 200 feet of continuous webbing...or do they? I say it is easier to educate store workers than all the climbers..and just have a big warning label on the spool to start.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
lena_chita
Posts: 347
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 9:48 pm

Re: Advice to new climbers

Post by lena_chita »

pigsteak wrote:why is the splice such an issue for manufacturers? I only own two pieces of webbing today and they are both maybe 6 footer. not like people go out and buy 200 feet of continuous webbing...or do they? I say it is easier to educate store workers than all the climbers..and just have a big warning label on the spool to start.
There already are big warning stickers on the spools about the splicings. I actually specifically looked when visiting a gear shop, after I heard about the accident involving the spliced webbing about 2 years ago. But obviously this isn't enough.

I do get the fact that the store clerks working in gear shops often know nothing at all about climbing or webbing application. But I think the concept of "do not sell two pieces of this string as one continuous piece" is easy enough to communicate and to train the store employees for. Again, of the retired old ladies working in the fabric store can grasp the concept or remnants, odd-length pieces, and so on, I am pretty sure young kids working the counter in the gear shop can do it, too.

Doesn't mean that you shouldn't be educating new climbers, too, or that climbers aren't ultimately responsible for their own safety and for how they use their gear. Doing both is better than doing one.

Getting rid of the splicings on the spools would be even better. Just don't put any tape on them, tuck the tail in, and continue spooling-- is it really that hard for the manufacturer?
toad857
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Re: Advice to new climbers

Post by toad857 »

lena_chita wrote:Getting rid of the splicings on the spools would be even better. Just don't put any tape on them, tuck the tail in, and continue spooling-- is it really that hard for the manufacturer?
That's what I was thinking, too.... I mean, they could even tie the two ends in a knot. Even gumby climbers know to inspect their knots.
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