Trad as a Fad?

[der uber]

and more on point....rjackson climbs 12a...he sucks
I climb 12b...I suck
ow climbs 13b ...he also sucks....

quote]

For accuracy's sake alone:

Russ has climbed 12b
You have climbed 12d
Kris has climbed 13d

. . .And I failed to send my project after 21 attempts. Now how did Ray say I could lose more weight?

I'm relieved you have finally decided to confront your weakness. I pm'd you some diet plans based on sone essays from my buddy, Gandhi.

[RRO]

I heard geezer f'ing is all the rage in Europe....let's hope that fad is next here....

[clif]

i had a waking dream.

i was boning one of those grocery store deli bought roasted chickens and one of those new wave english songs came on the radio, maybe simple minds 'don't you forget about me' or cutting crews 'i just died in your arms tonight.' but, instead of thinking about the girl i made out with in 1985 who was the first one to ever grab my nuts i thought about why pigsteak had an opinion about placing gear.

i'm not going to say where the reality was and where the dream started, but i've decided that it's all about the aesthetics. you just have to walk up to a needles route with no old filled in bolt holes or other crap (yeah, aside from some chalk) to feel what's real climbing.

[dustonian]

i was boning one of those grocery store deli bought roasted chickens and one of those new wave english songs came on the radio, maybe simple minds 'don't you forget about me' or cutting crews 'i just died in your arms tonight.' but, instead of thinking about the girl i made out with in 1985 who was the first one to ever grab my nuts i thought about why pigsteak had an opinion about placing gear.

hahaha funniest thing I've ever read on this site!! But that may because I misunderstood the word "boning" on first read... or did I??

you just have to walk up to a needles route with no old filled in bolt holes or other crap (yeah, aside from some chalk) to feel what's real climbing.

Undoubtedly... probably the best climbing area in the US!! I feel bad for folks who haven't had that experience.

[clif]

yeah, thanks d

[graniteclimber]

Trad is the only place left to hide. After the pack of 10 year olds pissed all over the Red's 13+/14- there's just no pretending its rad any more. Every sport crag has a day care section on Saturdays. Morons walk out of a gym in Michigan and flash Red 5.11.

Good work leaving a little dirt on some holds though boys, gives a route some character. Not like some of those routes buffed to a high shine, a worn out path to no glory.

[c-foot]

If you knew Clif you would know that your first impression of "boning a chicken" was probably the right one.

[Shamis]

you just have to walk up to a needles route with no old filled in bolt holes or other crap (yeah, aside from some chalk) to feel what's real climbing.

Undoubtedly... probably the best climbing area in the US!! I feel bad for folks who haven't had that experience.

Yeah, Atlantis is clearly no more difficult than a red river gorge 5.11 sport route. Troll lol lol.

[JR]

512OW wrote:There was a day when I couldn't get up 5.11 sport routes... not even on toprope, but could do 5.11 cracks off the couch. Id have sworn then that sport climbing was harder.

This is not hyperbole.

so all these cutting edge bold gear routes that are rated 13c and up......are you guys also saying that these really are like 5.16 or something? where does the "trad is so much harder" whining end and the grades come together?

Good Question. Good point.

I realize this is not the Trad and Sport use the same grade system thread but.....

Why is almost all of the soloing done on crack climbs?? I seem to remember Steph Davis saying that having her hands in crack was liken to an anchor. She prided herself on never slipping out of a jam. The point is that crack climbing can be very secure if you know what you are doing and a 5.11 jam crack is just 5.11 even though it would feel 5.13 for me and many other Red river pocket paddlers.

I also remember Tommy Caldwell saying that nothing made him climb at a lower level than going to Yosemite. I guess his statement will be a bit ironic if he ends up sending his project there...but still I doubt he will give it (El Cap project) a ground breaking grade (although ground breaking for El Cap) once he sends it.

[caribe]

so all these cutting edge bold gear routes that are rated 13c and up......are you guys also saying that these really are like 5.16 or something?

Good Question. There is more here than meets the eye, and this thread has likely not breathed its last. Why are these bad asses soling the crack instead of the crimps? It could be that cracks tend not to break but crimps and other larger irregularities that we rely on tend to break. I think we may have chased old Odub off, but he does indeed have a point. IMO climbing crack is so body parameter intensive that the grade depends on the match in size between the finger and the crack. Crack is more difficult grade. IC grades go by size more or less.