Psychopathy

[allah]

Agreed

[JR]

do the bolts need chopped if there are glued on holds?

Thank you for the reply. A very direct question indeed!!!

Personally I would say no. Don't chop the bolts but remove the B.S. It wouldn't take much effort to remove or fill in the offending holds. Voila!!! Open project. New FA and grade if the route is sent.

The weird thing is I was more offended by the grade than the fake holds....

[JR]

Do you think the route would go without the 2 holds?

It would take some brushing and some crushing but it would go.

[Rollo]

Would there be an ethics problem with taking away manufactured holds??.... what a strange question i just asked.

[maine]

Chop it!

[JR]

Chopping it sounds time consuming. The most proactive thing I will do is bitch about it. I also try to shame the route. Bad route. Bad Bad ROUTE.

We could also shame the route by changing the name to something like Pile Driver or just Manufactured. I like that.

Or..

We could just change the grade to 13a or whatever and call it a day. Done and Done.

[maine]

The poor rock has nothing to do with it! It's the equiper and hold manufacturer who should be shamed!

[THB]

I don't know... I think we should go the other direction with it... Downgrade to 12b, up the stars to 5 out of 5, and take 2 or 3 stars away from all of the surrounding routes... We can keep it to ourselves... we go there and climb on the good routes, and all of the out of towners are there trying psychopathy... they go home and say, "wow, the red sucked, all of the 5 star routes had manufactured holds on them and everything was wicked hard"... an attempt to decrease crowds and shift some of the attention away from the rrg. while we are at it, lets put up some more manufactured, sucky routes and give them 5 stars just to make it believable.

[dustonian]

permadraw it hahaha!!!

[THB]

agree with dustin! where are those permadraws that got stripped from the lode? because we need them for this route, and paranoia, and cosmic sausage, etc... haha!!!