question for the bolters

[CLIMBTRAD]

Recently my crue and I rebolted Hipocrite. I went back a week later to remove the old bolts.. when I Inspected the new bolts I noticed the first 2 bolts had a little glue missing, and some had dripped out and hardened on the bolt..
I Hung on em and took some good falls em also.. they seem very strong, but I want to make it rite.

I have never had the glue seep out like this.. I know the bolts can come out when on the steeps. That's why I use the wave bolt.. but have not had glue run like that..

Here is what we did and used..

5/8 wave bolts
Brand new tube of Hilti re 500 glue
Drilled and cleaned holes many times brushing and blowing..
Glued holes put bolts in cleaned up and left..
It was about 70 outside temps
We did not notice any runs or drips when we rapped to do a final check..

So should I just add some glue or remove and start over.. I think they are fine but look a little funny now.. thanks for any advice.. Patrick

[Jeff]

I'd say it depends on how long the bolts are (6"?) and how much of a void was left from glue running out.
If a 6" bolt and a 1/2" or less of area with no glue, I'd fall on it all day.
Disclaimer: I'm no rocket scientist.

[CLIMBTRAD]

4inch bolt with 1/4 inch deep missing on one side of bolt..

[dustonian]

You're tweakin' dude... it's fine if you're only talking a 1/4" gap... as long as you drilled in good rock with plenty of support beneath the bolt (most important since the rock itself is many times weaker than the epoxy and the bolt), the bolt itself didn't slide appreciably out of the hole, the hole was clean, and the glue mixed well. Of course, tweaking is a good thing when it comes to bolting tho, so carry on!

Fill the 1/4" gap in with a dab of epoxy if appearances are a concern... cover with matching sand for maximum style points.

[CLIMBTRAD]

Yeah I tend to be a tweaker!!

[dustonian]

As far as cause, it probably wasn't temperature since 70 isn't that warm really... was there condensation that day? Don't know if you've used RE500 on a super hot humid day but it turns really liquid and messy if above 90F or so. But even then, I've never really have leakage issues as long as the bolt stays in the hole 100% while the epoxy sets. Sounds like you may have over-reamed a bit and the extra space around the bolt shaft prevented a snug fit with the bolt. Did you have to tap it in with the hammer at all, or did the bolt just slide in by hand? You lose a lot of the advantages of the Wave on steep rock if the hole is too wide for the tapered shaft to snug up into it.

Man, that sounds dirty.

[krampus]

tapered for her enjoyment

[CLIMBTRAD]

Bolt was tight had to use a hammer to put it in..
It did not seem to be very humid and wasn't hot when we bolted, but did get hot later that day.. when I did my Mixing I made 3 piles of glue. I use these as sorta a test. To see how they set up. They were still wet 2 hours later when we unpacked at a new spot. Also this route stays in the shade for the morning.. not sure if the sun hits it later,or if that would even matter..
I try to bevel the glue on the inside of the bolt a little.. maybe this helped the glue run on the overhang..

[dustonian]

Cool maybe it was the bevel, that's probably the steepest route you've glued, so it could have just been the excess glue running out. Keep in mind that with the RE500 one of the main advantages is that you can actually see the two components mixing in the nozzle and see the color change after a squirt or two, from dull grey-pink to the bright (ugly ass) red-pink when starting a new tube. That's about the only advantage it has over RE150, that and you can use it in warmer weather. Otherwise it's nasty shit that gives me an allergic rash almost every time I use it now.... missing winter already!

[CLIMBTRAD]

Yeah I like the 150 also.. I like the redhead glue even better but it stinks so bad..