route recommendation

[MarkM]

I was wondering if anyone could help me find a good trad route for my first lead. I am comfortable leading 5.9 sport and have worked on placing gear on the ground and have a decent rack. About 10 BD camalots and a few Metolious smaller cams, 2 sets of BD stoppers and some runners and slings. Thanks

[ynp1]

Laceration, at maribu fork. 5.4 and easy gear.

[dustonian]

How many traditional pitches have you followed & cleaned? This is the best way to learn in the very beginning.

If you have followed a fair bit, climb Eureka (5.6) at Global Village clipping bolts AND placing gear. Have someone with many years of traditional climbing experience inspect the pro and give you feedback on your placements.

Or hire a guide from Red River Outdoors.

[MarkM]

I have followed and cleaned a 250ft multi pitch in Wyoming a few years back. I've also top roped several cracks out west. I really just want to get into climbing crack. Any one interested in helping a new leader probably the first or second week in April let me know.

[Syphur]

Opinions will vary but I feel a real difference between same grade sport and trad lines. Personally I dumb down my trad lines 2 grades from sport to get a similar feel. Could just be me though. I'm not any good to begin with.

[ahab]

Crack Attack at Indian CreekPeriod

[AndyB]

Casual Viewing (5.7) at Global Village.

[cliftongifford]

Any of the easy stuff at Fortress Wall... or Green Eggs and Ham at Dip Wall.

[Spikeddem]

I have followed and cleaned a 250ft multi pitch in Wyoming a few years back. I've also top roped several cracks out west. I really just want to get into climbing crack. Any one interested in helping a new leader probably the first or second week in April let me know.

Personally, this doesn't sound like someone that should be leading on gear without a more experienced person around. I like your idea of trying to climb with someone willing to offer some (informed) instruction.

Remember:
There are two things that keep you alive when climbing: your climbing ability and your gear placing ability. Don't test them both at the same time.

To me, it sounds like you'll be learning how to crack climb while making educated guesses on gear placements.

[camhead]

Crack Attack at Indian CreekPeriod

I would not recommend this for a first trad lead, especially not if the OP lacks handjamming skills and a lot of gold camalots. If he can find someone to go set up a TR on it for him, however, I would highly recommend it.