Loose bolt/hanger on Commencement, Eastern Sky Bridge

[taurusclimber]

As the title says, the bolt hanger is loose on the 9th bolt of Commencement at Eastern Sky Bridge. I don't know if that means the bolt is loosening or if the nut just needs to be tightened for the hanger, but either way, here's the heads up.

[cliftongifford]

http://teamsuckclimbing.com/bolts/

[dustonian]

take a wrench and tighten it down... it ain't rocket surgery

[taurusclimber]

Thanks for the wonderful input and informing me that tightening a bolt isn't rocket "surgery". I don't live in the gorge, didn't have a wrench on me, and I won't be there for a few weeks. That's why I posted.

[Andrew]

buy a wrench, and bring it with you every time.

[taurusclimber]

I do have a wrench and will be keeping it in my pack now.

[dustonian]

Sorry, didn't mean it in a snide way. My point was that for simple things like tightening down a nut or 5-piece hex bolt, every climber should really carry a small wrench in their pack and be prepared to make minor repairs such as this. Loctite is also useful for wedge-style bolts with a loose nut. I appreciate the good intentions in reporting stuff like this, but in all likelihood the hanger has been spinning for a long time and no one is going to rush out to ESB with wrench in hand. If the bolt or nut is genuinely bad and cannot be tightened (ie. moving in the hole, severely corroded, or stripped beyond use), then reporting it online is good and someone will get to it eventually.

Just saw your later post, thanks!! Approximately 25-40 lbs of torque is ideal. Just enough to stop the spinning but not cranked insanely. Positioning the hanger on the flattest possible surface and at a 10-20 degree angle (some of an arrow for direction of load) can also help prevent "the spin." The reality though is that Corbin sandstone is pretty soft and often crumbles a bit behind the hanger. ESB is probably due for a stainless retrofit in the next few years... what an awesome crag!! One of my personal favorites for sure.

[taurusclimber]

No problem. There lies the problem with the internet: text doesn't communicate tone of voice. Anyway, thanks for the details. And yes, it is an awesome crag. That was my first time on commencement and I thought it was a great route.

[dustonian]

yeah super fun & def 11c not 11-!

[taurusclimber]

Ha! I got on it thinking it was 11a from looking in the guidebook. "Damn, this is a hard 11a!"