PDs at Lode

[tH1e-swiN1e]

Is the crew going to leave them up this time?

As climbers arent we supposed to hang our own gear? Ill agree with whatever the community agrees with as long as this BS is over before spring season, I dont care whether they stay up or not.

[Artsay]

Cletus - there are obviously two sides to this situation but to be clear....the way I felt bullied, uncomfortable climbing at the Lode, and threatened is on a philosophical/emotional level and what I believe most others meant by this as well.

Personally, I never felt anyone would physically harm me but I did feel bullied and threatened by the statement of what was done. If my perfectly safe project draws were up on a route and I came back and someone took them down to regulate me, then that makes me feel bullied and threatened to not leave my draws up on a project or else they will be removed. You may not agree on this but that's how folks in the non-crew camp have been made to feel. I still believe the underlying reason for this action was to cut down on the crowds which was effectively done because some climbers felt bullied and threatened in these ways and thus stayed away from the Lode.

Definition:
"Bullying - the use of force or coercion to affect others, particularly when habitual and involving an imbalance of power."

If I'm interpreting what has been written/stated correctly, Hugh Loeffler twice said that he would take down draws left on routes. This is bullying and threatening. I don't care if they are not stolen. Until the community agrees on a standard, no one person or small group should mandate behavior others must follow. Would a climber "break somone's windshield" if they took their draws down? No, but the point is that is how this situation caused climbers to feel and I think it's important that we try to learn from this for the future.

I applaud Allie and Kevin (and Nick Duttle and the "crew" and others) for caring enough to work together to restore peace. The general concensus at this point is to setup a meeting in December to discuss this situation and work on getting community involvment in developing a plan for the future.

[Artsay]

The quick version. Alli and Kevin were super pissed the draws came down cuz it violated a global consensus. As opposed to talking to anyone involved they emailed Chuck Odette and talked a bunch of shit about shit they didn't really know and called out Dario and Tackett for not getting involved. They encouraged Petzl to think about including bylaws to prevent cleaning routes and removing Petzl's support from the red. Chuck seemed to agree and talked some more shit behind everyone's back based on false shit. Tackett responded and cc'd tons of folks who were being slandered and to open communication. No communication actually occurred as was to be expected, just more whining and shit talking. Finally someone called someone and Chuck and Cletus talked as well as Kevin and Cletus. Chuck apologized to everyone via email and Nick Duttle got the draws from everyone at Miguel's and from what i understand the Lago Linda's folks hung up from Resurrection left to the cave.

Keenan - You sound upset with what happened so I'm wondering if it's because the draws went back up or because "outsiders" got involved?

I guess I'm confused...it sounds to me like there were good discussions that took place and some miscommunications were cleared up. The draws went up on only certain steep routes, a seeminly peace-making compromise to help get everything back to "square one" so a more community-centric approach can be taken.

[SCIN]

Thanks for the material guys! Love ya!

rrg_edition_4_history_notes.png (83 KiB) Viewed 4227 times

[dustonian]

Ha ha. Can you put that cartoon about the ants in there too? What a bunch of choad nibbling buttsniffers...

[clif]

now that's funny

[tbwilsonky]

Thanks for the material guys! Love ya!

rrg_edition_4_history_notes.png

dude. you are on fire. +10

[pigsteak]

since SCIN no longer climbs, maybe he should write his memoirs of 'real" climbing back when trad actually mattered....then perhaps these new folks plugging gear would realize they are way behind the times, sort of like the people taking down draws are way behind the times.

perhaps all new routes , slab, vert, or steep should be mandated to have steel PD's affixed by the route developer. I agree this is not about safety, but I am 100% agreeing that taking away the convenience factor is an excellent idea. why does climbing have to boil down to the lowest denominator all the time? what happened to the experience of climbing, and not just the sport wienie mentality of sending with the least possible effort and disruption to their schedule?

[pigsteak]

Go look yourself...

how would "looking" help? I wanted the drama version.

[tbwilsonky]

why does climbing have to boil down to the lowest denominator all the time?

dude. everything is awful. why should climbing be any different?