727foxtree wrote:So what should people do when accidents like this occur?
It seems like some people would agree that mistakes happen. It seems like there's always details that can be handled better. The climber could have mentioned he was dynoing, for instance. The belayer could have made sure he could see the climber - if it was possible to do so. The climber could have communicated to the belayer about the possibility of a fall at such and such spot on the route.
Part of good belaying is simple communicating. It seems pretty cold to shame someone when a mistake happens. Again, I'm not defending anyone here, but I am curious how we as a community should react in these situations--and they can happen pretty often. If there is a climber with a shitty attitude, I get that. If they are genuinely sorry and unsure about what happened, I feel like people should work with them and figure out what happened and correct the mistakes rather than shame them outwardly and dickishly like I saw last weekend. Again, at least some of this shaming was coming from said belayer I know that isn't exactly a Petzl Ambassador for proper belay technique.
The first thing that needs to be done is for an accurate (as possible) account of what happened. Without his honest input, a video, or someone that was closely watching his belay during the fall, this isn't possible. Without the facts, you have no business ripping into the guy. My guess is 99.9% of these droppings are completely due to belayer error. But right now there is too much speculation without any evidence.
Then you need to ask yourself...have you ever given a compromised belay for even a second? I know that I have... I have belayed with an ATC and had my hand slip off the rope as I went to feed slack or re-adjust... Just for a spit second. I have never had any fall on me when feeding slack with a gri-gri, but what if?
My point is that there is sloppy, shitty belaying and there is shit that just happens. Before you give someone a tongue lashing, make sure you know the difference.