Deliberate Practice

[pigsteak]

yes, gary, I completely agree with what I need to get better...as the shoulder heals, I can feel my excitement to grow. I thought now would be a good time to take a second look at my "training" and throw some new stuff in. Lee Smith, Ray, and Kris are the only ones I know who really 'train"..all with great results...ok, Matt Johns too,when he can quit complaining about wanting to be outside and whines about how boring the training is.....

I think my base line of fitness needs to come first, and then all this climbing strategy stuff.....thats why I was asking what sort of deliberate stuff has worked for others.....

[One-Fall]

Lee Smith, Ray, and Kris are the only ones I know who really 'train"..all with great results...ok, Matt Johns too,when he can quit complaining about wanting to be outside and whines about how boring the training is.....

For the Matt comment, you have just earned a free pizza and all the belays I can give. God Bless You for that Piggie. God Bless you.

[gilb]

pigsteak wrote:
Lee Smith, Ray, and Kris are the only ones I know who really 'train"..all with great results...ok, Matt Johns too,when he can quit complaining about wanting to be outside and whines about how boring the training is.....


beautiful...absolutely hilarious!!!!

[One-Fall]

My philosophy lately has been just to try hard and make sure you leave the gym wrecked. I think this is all that is needed. The average climber at the gym I go to climbs 5.13+ and V double digits. Noone there uses deliberate practice. No hangboard routines, campus board routines, ab workouts, etc... The only thing routinely done is trying hard, and leaving tired. My guess is that if people went to the gym and climbed as much as they socialize they would get stronger. Everyone is a fulltime workers and most have wives and families as well... There are no excuses, they joke around, if you are having a weak day expect to be called out, motivation is high, but most of all they try hard and climb a lot.

Just in case you don't know kyle or the crew he climbs with, most have climbed 14 or have the potential to this season. What kyle says about just trying HARD is way underated and i still havent even come close to being able to try that hard when I know there is a 90% chance I wont make the move (im really working on this). That is a huge difference between those who succeed and those who are hanging at the end of their rope.

Now would The Hester's Crew climb harder if they trained? I think so, but when you climb 5.14 and boulder v12 WITHOUT systematic training, can you really blame them for just going after it every session? Intuition and friendship has taken those guys to mutant status.

[kafish2]

Lee, you are correct, I think we could climb better with systematic training but that just is so hard to implement and stick to. I guess my point is that based on most of the goals people are posting about don't require systematic training per se. I would think that most goals could be met if people just went into the gym and tried really hard and had friends that called them out for slacking (because we all slack).

Hugh, I think you also hit on something very important, peer expectations... My guess is that the limitations we place on our selves mentally are more important that the limitations we experience genetically. I can guaruntee that if you go in expecting to get owned by a climb you will be.

[aburgoon]

Pigsteak, mind sharing the names of the books that sparked the conversation?

[pigsteak]

Mindset
Talent is Overrated
Bounce
Another one by Daniel Pink which the name escapes me right now.

[aburgoon]

Hmm, thought Gravity's Rainbow was sure to be in there.

[Shamis]

Really close on my local sport climbing project. My training is definitely paying off. My endurance is already up to what it was before I was injured, and the weight loss is making all the moves easier. I need to work in a little more abdominal stuff as my foot popped off right at the top because I let the core sag.

[pigsteak]

gary, I think that this is where the discussion divides in that you and I are always trying to get back in shape. we are not "taking it to the next level" of elite performance... my question really was to focus in those who use "deliberate practice", and if it has helped them.

that is the point the books are making....so many "athletes" think they are "practicing" but when they look back at the last ten years of performance they have made little headway in their chosen discipline. it is merely a series of peaks and valleys but no real sustained jump in performance..for me, I am always trying to stay at 12a as a level to gauge my fitness.....but I have not moved that level up in ten years.....