Deliberate Practice

[Shamis]

I'm convinced that normal people don't climb 5.14.

If you're an average athlete and you train hard, you'll send 5.12, maybe even 13a/b, but without some very good genes I don't see any 'average' athletes training their way to 5.14. If I quit my job, quit smoking, lost another 30 pounds and did nothing but train, I might get into the upper 13 range, but I still doubt I'd ever tick a 14, and I actually used to be an above average athlete. I think It may come down to the fact that unless you have enough natural ability to be classed as semi-pro/pro already, you won't have the time needed to actually make it to that level since you'd have to train your average body to it's limit to get there, and that would mean no time for a proper career/family etc.

[Shamis]

When I'm not climbing I've been running and doing some weights. The weight lifting is mostly just for shoulder stability though because I really really don't want to get injured.

Gary running? Warn the seismic watch stations in your area before you go out.

I'm down to 199, probably about 16 pounds under what you last saw me at. So the ground shakes a bit less these days. Hoping to hit 190 by sept.

[climb2core]

I am really interested in hearing specifically how you each meet your climbing goals, or do you just not have goals anymore?

here is what I am trying to hone in on, like sendit says: these books say that "deliberate practice" is nothing like many envision. it is NOT doing more pitches, or just going into the gym for a power session. it is NOT hanging with buds having no idea what your plans are for the climbing day. it IS having a specific, detailed plan on one specific thing to work on, and you focus and focus on that ONE thing until you dial it. problem for me is that I feel so overwhelmed by all the nuances of climbing that I can't seem to really get down to the core, and work, for example, just backstepping for an entire 2-3 hour training session. but that would be deliberate practice, not 15 minutes of backstepping, and then on to the treadwall....

I think that many of us (me included) have never done 'deliberate practice" at anything in our life. The authors maintain that by focusing on such a regimen, we would put our game at an elite level. For climbers, i would assume we would all warm up on 13's and 14 would go in a few burns....they really try to blow a hole in "god given talent".

How many days/week do you train indoors? On average, how many hours per session? It would not be productive to spend 2 hours on working on back stepping if you only have 2 hours to work out and only work out 3 days per week. Also, keep answering the question: Why don't I send? If it is because you never back step, then maybe it would be worth it, but somehow I doubt that is the case. So, I am asking why don't you send? Have you identified your weakness? From what I hear it sounds like it may be failure to train consistently as you are always trying to "get back in shape". Of course, shoulder surgery excluded.

[chriss]

I've been training for a trip to colorado for the last month. I definitely practice. The limiting factor for me has always been endurance, so I'm focusing on doing lots and lots of routes just under my limit. I find this allows me to boost endurance and technique while lessening the chance of injury.

I still want to keep my power up though, so I'm trying to make sure I spend one night a week bouldering in the gym. But I won't do anything really hard. I just do lots of problems about 1-2 v grades under my limit. I guess it's more power endurance, but it still provides better power training than the routes I'm on.

I am not sure this is deliberate practice, just climbing. Hardly what most (at least me) would call training.

As tbwilson points out, check out Hampton's (Odub) site. He provides great insight into training.

[pigsteak]

Honestly, for me it is I get too distracted with other things. Bolting, just hanging out at the crag, FA's, running, et al....I guess it just boils down to I am a dreamer and "want" to climb harder, but the cold hard truth is that I am not willing to put in "deliberate practice" to get better. I will go boulder 1-2 times a week, but it is not focused at all...I leave my house having zero idea what I will do once I hit the gym.

For example, when training for running, I will schedule my runs for 3-4 months ahead, and will do 98% of those runs on schedule. I do not even have a training for climbing schedule. Do you guys?

[climb2core]

So your weakness is your inability to train deliberately. You are asking everyone on how to train deliberately... have you made the commitment to follow through? If not, why bother asking on specific plans on how to do it? You gotta want it first... then all the rest will follow.

[pigsteak]

exactly..I am asking for feedback from those who have actually done it and seen results. but my guess is that almost everyone on here is searching and asking the similar questions, just maybe not openly.

[Yasmeen]

I do not even have a training for climbing schedule. Do you guys?

Yup, drawn up for me by the training master, since it's hard for me to come up with my own. I need those bullet points if I want to stay on track. I pretty much credit Kris with 25% of each of my sends since 2008.

[Shamis]

I've been training for a trip to colorado for the last month. I definitely practice. The limiting factor for me has always been endurance, so I'm focusing on doing lots and lots of routes just under my limit. I find this allows me to boost endurance and technique while lessening the chance of injury.

I still want to keep my power up though, so I'm trying to make sure I spend one night a week bouldering in the gym. But I won't do anything really hard. I just do lots of problems about 1-2 v grades under my limit. I guess it's more power endurance, but it still provides better power training than the routes I'm on.

I am not sure this is deliberate practice, just climbing. Hardly what most (at least me) would call training.

As tbwilson points out, check out Hampton's (Odub) site. He provides great insight into training.

Sticking to a schedule, doing things that aren't 'fun' qualifies as training to me. I haven't checked out odub's site, but I will. However, I'm seeing massive gains right now, so I'm not likely to deviate until I start plateauing.

I know which days I'm going to climb, what I'm going to do on the non-climbing days, and I'm pushing myself harder. There is a big difference between 'training' for people who are already climbing at a high level, and 'training' for people who are just out of shape even for non-climbing stuff.

I guess the only part of my current routine that involves 'practice' of a specific technique is that I've switched fully over to open-gripping. So especially when I boulder, I've been trying to very slowly narrow the gap between what I used to do via crimping and what I do now when I'm using an open grip.

I'm also make sure I get at least 1, preferably 2 massive endurance days a week at the gym. This is somewhat dependent on finding a good belayer. But last night for instance I did 20 routes in 1.5 hours, with the average difficulty being about 5 letter grades under my current limit. this works me out nearly to the point of puking, and I have to really focus more and more on technique as I get near the end of the workout. Obviously just climbing for fun though.

[climb2core]

I guess all I am asking is: You are asking for the roadmap, are you really willing to make the journey? I would say wish you luck, but we both know that's got nothin to do with it