Deliberate Practice

[pawilkes]

At the start of my third year in the Red I started running out of 11's to do so, rather than commanding my partners to climb where I had stuff to do all the time (I certainly did it part of the time, thanks y'all)

Worded too unceremoniously given that it gave me harrowing flashbacks of climbing with L'enfant terrible during his 11 proj.

are you calling me an elephant or an infant?

[tbwilsonky]

does it equate to an increase in performance - of course! it's almost an absurd question.

almost? psh. yes. focused - well-informed - training works.

[climb2core]

does it equate to an increase in performance - of course! it's almost an absurd question.

almost? psh. yes, of course, focused - well-informed - training works.

Pigsteak already knows all the answers to the questions he is asking... he is just trying to evoke an emotional response. What a troll!!

[bcombs]

Shoot for the moon, if you miss you still end up in the stars

Dude, seriously?

Pig, just follow Lee around and do what he does. Good to go. Or quit your day job and follow Hampton around. Either way you're golden.

Your post is interesting. I didn't know that others spent as much time in "getting in shape" mode as I did. While I enjoyed it, I was all over the place with the regimen. There were long stretches where I didn't even climb, just running, cross fit / weight lifting and trying to lose weight. Good luck with your goals this fall.

[climb2core]

Shoot for the moon, if you miss you still end up in the stars

Dude, seriously?

Dude, not serious, seriously.

[tbwilsonky]

hampton's site is good if anyone wants some direction ---> http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com

the only thing I'd add is:
replace lifting weights with gymnastic strength training. inverted curls, muscle-ups, pushups, etc. it's hard and it's always fun to work through progressions. a good resource ---> http://gymnasticbodies.com/ also his hardCore workout is okay, but front levers aren't the only core routine in town. l-sit lifts, for instance, are fucking beast AND they help keep your shoulders nice and healthy by working some push muscles. dig around gymnasticbodies and beastskills.com and look for different progressions. and if you can find it, Dave Wahl used to have a really cool A-E core routine that is really good for tightening up the chain.

[tbwilsonky]

there's also this:
http://sendann.wordpress.com/2011/05/19 ... wish-hell/

[Shamis]

I've been training for a trip to colorado for the last month. I definitely practice. The limiting factor for me has always been endurance, so I'm focusing on doing lots and lots of routes just under my limit. I find this allows me to boost endurance and technique while lessening the chance of injury.

I still want to keep my power up though, so I'm trying to make sure I spend one night a week bouldering in the gym. But I won't do anything really hard. I just do lots of problems about 1-2 v grades under my limit. I guess it's more power endurance, but it still provides better power training than the routes I'm on.

Then I try to make sure I get on 1 hard route project each weekend, even if it's just a couple burns. This is mainly to see how everything is progressing overall, and because I want to send it.

When I'm not climbing I've been running and doing some weights. The weight lifting is mostly just for shoulder stability though because I really really don't want to get injured.

I'm hoping to do something about 4 letter grades harder than I've ever lead on gear in sept. I know the moves won't throw me, but endurance as always will be the crux. I'm going with somebody who is strong enough to lead all the pitches, but I don't want to be dragged up the route, I want to lead some of the hard pitches as well, hence the training.

Kipp you obviously have awesome endurance, so if you want to 'practice' then you really need to work on either power, or diet. Working on power can be dangerous at your age, but I'd imagine some sort of fingerboard and/or lockoff type stuff would probably give you a boost.

[caribe]

When I'm not climbing I've been running and doing some weights. The weight lifting is mostly just for shoulder stability though because I really really don't want to get injured.

Gary running? Warn the seismic watch stations in your area before you go out.

[pigsteak]

I am really interested in hearing specifically how you each meet your climbing goals, or do you just not have goals anymore?

here is what I am trying to hone in on, like sendit says: these books say that "deliberate practice" is nothing like many envision. it is NOT doing more pitches, or just going into the gym for a power session. it is NOT hanging with buds having no idea what your plans are for the climbing day. it IS having a specific, detailed plan on one specific thing to work on, and you focus and focus on that ONE thing until you dial it. problem for me is that I feel so overwhelmed by all the nuances of climbing that I can't seem to really get down to the core, and work, for example, just backstepping for an entire 2-3 hour training session. but that would be deliberate practice, not 15 minutes of backstepping, and then on to the treadwall....

I think that many of us (me included) have never done 'deliberate practice" at anything in our life. The authors maintain that by focusing on such a regimen, we would put our game at an elite level. For climbers, i would assume we would all warm up on 13's and 14 would go in a few burns....they really try to blow a hole in "god given talent".