had close call recently

[pru]

I didn't read all the comments, but Art I had a similar experience once. I let a good friend and regular climbing partner lead on my pre-placed gear. He had a bad fall at the top of Father and Son. His foot stayed in the crack and he fell below it (because he did this weird high step foot jam...). Fortunately my pieces were bomber, and I sewed it up, too. The gear stayed put, but the tendons pulled bone from his ankle. It was a rough carry out. He hasn't climbed since... My take away from that was that I would NEVER let anyone lead on my gear again, even though it wasn't a factor in his injuries. But what if it had been? I would have never forgiven myself, even though I have zero doubts about my gear placement ability. And the reason behind my confidence (or former confidence, heh, since I don't climb anymore) was that I followed and cleaned for a long time before I ever led my first trad route. And even after all the time following, I paid for and took guided instruction - twice (totalling 4 days) - before I did. I think following and cleaning teaches budding trad leaders more about gear placement than leading on someone else's gear. (I continue to analyze other people's placements when I clean.) The the next step would be going up on top rope while placing gear and having a competent leader follow and critique each piece. Some people pick it up quicker than others and you can't spend too much time learning this stuff correctly. Just my 2 cents, unadjusted for inflation

[caribe]

Well, I easily got the worst of the fall, but I am already healing. Yesterday Pig Steak said, "I am limping a bit" and I said, "I am?"

- I posted to inform and get opinions. What I learned from you guys is that I rushed it. I was impressed with my partner's float on TR and thought he was ready to place gear after discussing placement, rock configuration, lobe contact and rock quality and having him hang on some gear and having him inspect my placements. All that prelim stuff can't be enacted without a calm head. Thanks for your opinions and a valuable discussion. We live and I learn . . . just glad we lived. If you are thinking about instructing someone who is gung ho to learn trad think about this discussion; I hope it helped.

- If you have anything that needs to be said please post it. I just thought I would tell you what I concluded out of your posts.

[pigsteak]

didn't you discern that I said you are still a sport gumball....