Replacing Steel Biners

[dustonian]

I could probably get them to you tomorrow... I have 7 from Rick, which should be enough, assuming there are at least 2 on the route that are in good condition (I am sure there are more than 2 that are still in good shape). Will be at the Lode.

[vertical1]

What time would you pass miguels to the lode? I will be there till 10 or so. call me 303 641 7535

[vertical1]

seems like maybe 4 need replaces

[caribe]

seems like maybe 4 need replaces

Could you have a real good look at the each draw and the wire that connects the draw to the Qlink/ hanger? If we are going to inspect this thing, we might as well have a close look.

Inquire at Miguel's. They probably have some steel PDs that you can use so you don't have to worry about working a meeting out with Dustin.They did a few months ago. Do you have a wrench, pliers and locktite? If not, perhaps try to catch Webers at home or perhaps Dario at Miguels can help you out.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products.shtml

Please drop the biners in question off at the Webers so we can discuss the utility and lifetime of steel biners given the traffic on CB6.

[caribe]

The aluminum biner and dogbone are sort of needed there to reduce rope drag. They were in much better condition than the steel biners at 2, 3 and 5. Why did you remove it?

The Al biner was not closing on its own; we had to manually close it. Rope drag is not a big issue.

[climb2core]

Thanks to all involved!!! I will make a point to get and keep a few steel biners on my rack for replacement purposes. Seems like quite a few of my favorite routes/projects tend to have perma's.

[dustonian]

seems like maybe 4 need replaces

Could you have a real good look at the each draw and the wire that connects the draw to the Qlink/ hanger? If we are going to inspect this thing, we might as well have a close look.

Inquire at Miguel's. They probably have some steel PDs that you can use so you don't have to worry about working a meeting out with Dustin.They did a few months ago. Do you have a wrench, pliers and locktite? If not, perhaps try to catch Webers at home or perhaps Dario at Miguels can help you out.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products.shtml

Please drop the biners in question off at the Webers so we can discuss the utility and lifetime of steel biners given the traffic on CB6.

True, Dario may be willing to donate some of last fall's PDs for CB6...

I disagree with the need for lock-tite, just face the quicklinks "downhill" with the gate tightening with gravity rather than loosening. Give a 1/4-turn snug-up with a crescent wrench. Loctite only creates a big toxic mess and makes the PDs a total pain in the ass to replace when they inevitably need replacing in 3-5 years (on a route this popular). A little snugging with a wrench and "downhill" orientation is more than adequate.

[pigsteak]

I second the downhill orientation. I only lock tite the anchors, as those have a way of disappearing when people are in direct at top....

[vertical1]

Al dilluvio, Django Croner and I replaced the the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 5th permas on Cell Block today. Thanks to people who donated for Dario to get permas.

[caribe]

WHere are the old biners? Thanks for your communal spirit. If more followed up like you as a community we'd be ok instead of a pack of a holes.

Al dilluvio, Django Croner and I replaced the the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 5th permas on Cell Block today. Thanks to people who donated for Dario to get permas.