Replacing Steel Biners

[caribe]

We removed the Al biner and draw in question.

[climb2core]

Your back to back posts have me a little confused... So you have pulled the draw that was upside down on the bolt before the crux bolt that was very worn? If you have it can you post a pic?

[caribe]

We only removed the Al biner and its nylon dog bone. I did not see the worn steel biner.

[vertical1]

Climb2core, the 2nd, 3rd and 5th draw were sharp, not the crux draw. In falling, the rope wraps around creating more of a rounded edge. Those were sharp from general wear on climbing and lowering over the last several years. We turned them over because They are all at easy clipping stances so an upside down gate is not much of an inconvienence.

[vertical1]

The aluminum biner and dogbone are sort of needed there to reduce rope drag. They were in much better condition than the steel biners at 2, 3 and 5. Why did you remove it?

[climb2core]

Climb2core, the 2nd, 3rd and 5th draw were sharp, not the crux draw. In falling, the rope wraps around creating more of a rounded edge. Those were sharp from general wear on climbing and lowering over the last several years. We turned them over because They are all at easy clipping stances so an upside down gate is not much of an inconvienence.

I have said, 3 or 4 times now, that it was NOT the crux draw, but the one below it. Turning draws upside down does not seem like a very good longterm solution IMO. Now that you mention it, I do remember that the 3rd draw was upside down. While climbing I thought it had flipped and turned it back around. I did not notice any significant wearing. However when I got to the 5th and saw it turned over, I did notice significant wear that concerned me.

I did not remove any biners, but I did notify Rick and offer to replace it. Apparently Caribe has removed it?

[vertical1]

If you did not notice wear on the 3rd, go back, feel it and try not to cut your finger. Wear that is rounded is safe, its the sharp edges that are dangerous. I know you said it was not the crux draw, but you said you thought someone replaced the crux draw with that draw, and I am telling you that is not what happened.

[climb2core]

Understand what you are saying now. Several questions then...

1.) Is it safe to climb on an upside down biner? I have always assumed that biners were designed somewhat uni-directional?
2.) The sharp end of the draw was resting on the wire... seems potentially dangerous with time that it could cause fraying of the wire?
3.) Did you notify anyone after you noticed that the 2nd, 3rd, and 5th draws were in bad shape and in need of replacing or have a game plan for replacing. Or was your longterm solution to just leave them upside down?

Not asking any of the questions with attitude. Just trying to understand.

Thanks.

[dustonian]

I have about 7 climbtech PDs from Rick. Was going to put them on Crucible or Vortex, but it sounds like they are needed on this route.

[vertical1]

vortex could use one at the roof clip, very dangerous clip to hang draw anyway. poor bolt placement.