Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

[dustonian]

Counting your "goes" on sport routes after blowing the flash or onsight attempt is WAY fruity. Seriously, unless you're climbing 15a no one gives a damn. Even then it's pretty damn boring.

[pigsteak]

Counting your "goes" on sport routes after blowing the flash or onsight attempt is WAY fruity. Seriously, unless you're climbing 15a no one gives a damn. Even then it's pretty damn boring.

so now we care at 15a? hmmm, always thought it was about personal limits. I love to keep track of how many goes it takes...gives me a hint on where my fitness is.

[dustonian]

Sure, personal limits, pushing yourself, etc etc. That's why I think the onsight or flash is the only true metric... as you pointed out, everything else is dependent on how efficient one is at "working" a route and what they happen to consider an "attempt"... seems kinda squishy.

Plus I honestly don't care... but that's just me. Sure is nice to onsight something at your limit though!

[vertical1]

Pigsteak.

Probably about 24th go, but second time to the chains. Figure I work every bolt section twice, and difficult sections three times. Wasn't trying to spray about "second go" just making a point about it appearing that someone is on a route above their limit, when in fact they might not be. Once I fall on an onsite or flash, I will work it to death before coming back to the ground, so can get it the next redpoint attempt if possible. Whether it is second, or 34th doesnt matter to me.

[pigsteak]

man, you guys are no fun.....at least tell me I am full of crap or something.

[dustonian]

You're right about that, too.

[vertical1]

man, you guys are no fun.....at least tell me I am full of crap or something.

I didn't want to hurt your feelings and have you put away your drill.

[chriss]

all cool, as long as you count every hang on the rope as one go....so in your 'sesh", you actually sent it on, oh, perhaps your 34th go of the day...just be honest,that's all.

That is why I only count the number of times that I rope up.

[vertical1]

all cool, as long as you count every hang on the rope as one go....so in your 'sesh", you actually sent it on, oh, perhaps your 34th go of the day...just be honest,that's all.

That is why I only count the number of times that I rope up.

Does that mean if I rope up, and don't untie, then I can send it first go?

[chriss]

If I'm working a route and another climber walks up to the cliff and informs me that he is ready for his red point burn I'm not going to lower off the route and let him/her go. I would politely inform the climber that this is a working burn and it might be 30 minutes. I don't feel the difficulty of the route or my current redpoint level play into the etiquette for this situation. I was on the route first and should not feel pressured to get off the route for someone else.

Agreed!

With so many other routes at the solarium and the arsenal, jump on another route. Then again, if you can't handle waiting for 30 minutes you may need to work on your patience.