ReBolting the Mother Lode

[Meadows]

AWESOME! I've heard rumor on this and I'm psyched! I'll help anyway I can, just keep me away from a drill. I'll even provide food on any major bolting days. Let's make sure we have donation jars at events or maybe it's time to pull out Bodde's idea of $5 donation shots.

How about a "Route of the Month" feature so people know to which routes they are specifically supporting?

When the link is official, push it hard on Facebook for anyone concerned.

Dustin, Hugh ... you guys are great.

I <heart> the Motherlode!

[dustonian]

Right on Andrew... this has been seen historically at popular sport crags around the world.

Thanks Meadows!

[the lurkist]

Alright! So Blake has the paypal link up and running. You will get a receipt for Richard Bowling (Blake).

www.teamsuckclimbing.com go to the "help out" link and see the prominent Mother Lode rebolting button.

Thanks yall. Let's knock it out. Already have several hundred bucks. Nice!

[dustonian]

Nice Lurk. I wonder if we could get Blake drunk enough to code an adopt-a-route app for his site as well...?

[Yasmeen]

Just donated, and would love to help rebolt this summer. Thanks for getting this going, guys.

[THB]

Andrew and Dustonian:

I understand both sides of the coin... and some days I agree with one side and some days I agree with the other... I guess it's just a frustrating condumdrum that I'm going to have to learn to live with... I've fought the other side as well... see my OP about perma-draws which I posted last year (I think...)


At any rate... I just made my donation... routes that I wouldn't mind "adopting"...

stain, buff the wood, skinboat, ale-8-one, chainsaw, kick me in the jimmie, burliers bane... i certainly didn't donate enough to re-bolt all of those routes, but i'm not sure what routes everyone else already donated money towards...

also, i know how to bolt, so i'd be happy to help out with the rebolting of these routes! i've never placed one of the glue-in bolts, but i'd be happy to learn!

please keep me posted...

[THB]

one other thing... i was going to purchase some steel biners (for replacing bad biners on perma-draws, or bad biners on anchors, etc...)

dave scott did this a while back and he got a super bargin on some steel biners and so he bought a bunch that he's been scattering throughout the gorge... i forget exactly which brand of biners he bought... but they have a red gate (i think...) and i'm sure you've seen them at the lode amongst other places...

at any rate... i can purchase the C.A.M.P. gym safe carabiner which is a steel biner with an aluminum bent gate and a keeper pin, they retail for $9.95 each... i can get them in packs of 3 for $21/pack, with shipping (if i order 20 packs) it works out to about $7.65 per biner... it's not a great deal, but it's better than $9.95 each... and if i order more than 20 packs than the price per biner keeps going down a little bit at a time...

if anyone wants in on this, than just shoot me a p.m. and we can organize a big purchase of steel biners... or, if anyone knows of any deals that are better than this one, please let me know... i'm all for jumping ship if we can get cheaper steel biners elsewhere... (i haven't done much shopping around...)

let me know... thanks...

[ReachHigh]

I like the keeper pin on them. a quick link and some locktight would keep them on the route.

[vertical1]

this past weekend i was at the lode, and some girl walked up to the undertow wall (i'm guessing her first time at the lode...) and she was like, "okay which one is chainsaw, let me at it... i mean i'm probably going to hang all over it..." and she did, she hung at the 2nd bolt and couldn't even pull the crux moves at around the 5th bolt... come on, she had no reason to be on that route... she was just adding chalk and shoe rubber to the route... go look at tissue tiger for example, i was on that recently, and there is shoe rubber and chalk all over it! there is a slopey rail that some people use for a foot at the start of the crux, and it's so polished and full of shoe rubber that most of the time your foot just pops right off! i ended up doing it without using that foot...

just some food for thought... regardless, i'll make my monetary contribution before the end of the day.

I guess you have never hung all over a route. I have, and promptly sent second go. The matter is that she has a right to be on the route as much as someone who climbs it blindfolded as a warmup. Its a popular route for a reason.

As far as tissue tiger, it doesnt have perma draws but is substantially more "polished" than chainsaw, so mentioning it in your argument makes no sense. But I will say thanks for donating, as I have done the same.