sketchy-a$$ bolts!!!

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 12:52 am

So Saturday in the rain. We went exploring in the Southern Region. We found a wall off Fixer road. It had two routes on it.There was a third line that had a fixed line on it,but the line was broken/wore out. there were anchors but no bolts. The first line went up this stunning Dihedral. the second line went up the face and the third the same (if there had been bolts) none of these routes were tagged out. The bolts on the Dihedral were old and had rusted nuts on them. They looked to be 3/8 bolts with 1/4 inch shafts on them. Very sketchy at best. I wouldn't have climbed on them.Much less fallen. They were the cheapo kind made out of pot metal. Good for holding flower arrangements to a flat surface, like a kitchen table.

So this line is too good to let someone jackass up the bolts. So what are the ethics of re-bolting the route? Does anyone know who put it up? If so whats its rating.

Post by **Wes** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 1:18 pm

Could be an old Porter and/or Snyder route. There are a many of those scattered about. It sounds like the stud-type bolts that they were using for a while. Not death bolts, but not all that great.

As far as re-bolting it, first thing is to make sure who owns the land. There are some FS pockets and other private owners back there. If the ownership is OK, then replace them with nice, new SS Rawls. As to changing the placements or adding more bolts, then you get into a big ethical mess.

Wes

Post by **rhunt** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 1:25 pm

Was that the homney hole?

Post by **Wes** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:10 pm

That was on FS land, but, I think all the bolts have been removed from there.

Wes

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:22 pm

No, this was up stream. On the east side of big sinking creek(?) up the hill, along the same cliffline as the arena, but about two miles closer to Zachariah.
P.S.A.
I know you think I'm an absolute jackass, but why would I want to jeapordize climbing for everyone, or more importantly jeopardize climbing for myself. I never have, nor will I bolt something that was illegal or would jeopardize climbing.

Post by **Wes** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:29 pm

I never said you would. There are many people that own land up around there, some are climber friendly, some aren't. There are many routes out there that are on land that isn't climber friendly (like Ashland oil), so I would make sure it is cool before adding new hardware. Not everyone cared enough to find out where they were before drilling, so there are routes out there that just need to be left alone, or stripped.

BTW, I think re-equiping valid routes is a great thing, and I think it is a very good way to start before putting up new routes. It is the path that I hope to take.

wes

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:31 pm

yes grasshoppah, If you look, you will see the true way to enlightenment.

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:35 pm

Most of the land on the east side of BS above Bald Rock is Ashland Oil land. They are pretty good about posting though.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:36 pm

Sounds like Ashland Oil land to me. You can usually tell by the posted signs with their phone number on it.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 4:25 pm

I know what Ashlands' land and signs look like. This crag is close to it but not quite there. I would say that it's within 3-4 miles of Ashlands' interests. Any how, You guys know who put this up?