Obed and Shade

[drifter]

I'm headed up to the Obed for Memorial day and am trying to find some shady areas with routes in the 5.12-13 range. I've climbed a lot at some areas already, being pretty much done with Y12, Stephen King, and most of Lily. Are any of the North Clear areas shady? What about the Obed River crags? I know that Tierrany et al are sunny in the winter, are any of these areas shady in the summer? I've got dogs so I think the ledge at Little Clear may be a little sketchy.

Speaking of North Clear, does anyone know anything about the bolted route about 50 feet right of Saddam Hussein? It ends at anchors in a dihedral but looks like more bolts continue up toward the huge roof.

Thanks!

[gripster]

Little Clear and Lily Bluff are the two best options I know of. The ledge at little clear isn't that bad, I have had my dogs up there before. You can walk down below the ledge very easily and skip the via ferrata like traverse. Plus the swimming there is awesome. The only downside is if it has been raining you will not be able to make the creek crossing safely.

I have climbed at Y12 in the summer as well, it has some shade. South clear is similar, Solstice and some stuff in the Library is pretty shady. It is really hit and miss at most crags, except for Tierrany which will be a blast furnace on a sunny day. And I have never been to the West Obed before, so couldn't tell you anything about that. Hope that helps.

[Noell]

The route you are referring to at North Clear is a 12D that Kelly Brown put up. I forget the name of it. Freaking awesome though!!! It's 12D to the first anchor. It continues out the roof, but is only 5.11 climbing (so I have heard, I've only been on the first part and we cleaned it from there). One tip: I would put a really long, old draw on the first bolt, or something, cause we seriously wrecked two draws on that bolt. It rubbs over the sharp corner and about tore in half brand new Petzl draws.

Otherwise, Little Clear would be your best bet, if you could figure out the dog situation. North Clear can be sunny (sunnier towards the end fo the day). Inner Circle has easy 12's and is shady even in summer and is part of North Clear, too.

[Noell]

Oh yea... and Tierrany is NOT shady in the summer. Some stuff at West Obed may be shady, but you would be doing alot of hiking, and most of it would be very hot and sunny. There's a really steep 12b called Jigsaw puzzle, and some law 12's before it that would be doable and shady. It also depends on which way you hike in... if you hike via Tierrany, be prepared for a Loooong Hot hike. If you know the other way around, it wouldn't be too bad and you'd be closer to those cool 12's.