More 8a.nu nonsense

[SCIN]

Shoulda flashed but not strong enough so it took 3 tries. I wonder what makes the "shoulda". Almost flashed but i greased. Almost onsited but i got pumped. Almost flashed but i missed a hold. Almost flashed but i got out of sequence. Almost onsited but a spider got in the hold. Almost flashed but one of the bolts was missing a draw. Almost onsited but a hold broke. Almost flashed but fell at the bottom then at the top. Almost onsited but fell trying to clip the chains which is the crux. Almost onsited but read the route wrong. Almost flashed but only had three days left of the trip so i didn't send on my sixth try. Almost flashed but i got really tired.

Oh yea, what's with the new trend of reporting your spray as the number of days a route took you? Wanna bet that if you do a route second go your spray will be "i did it second go" instead of "i did it in one day"? Love it! I thought that was reserved for the pros.

[climb2core]

Ha ha.. will look for your wisdom on my "How to Send" thread...

[pigsteak]

ok, so I just checked out 8a.nu...wow. makes this place looks downright tame.

people arguing over lame-o issues, cutting each others throat, making personal attacks, spray so thick you have to swim....and that is just here. over on 8a, it is way worse..not sure I'll ever wade back in that sludge pit....

but Ray, keep me updated if anyone says anything good about my routes.

[pigsteak]

oh yeah, to those who have an 8a.nu scorecard and listed their sends at animal crackers wall....um, yeah, well......

[Rocky Top]

So I've seen a new trend where people aren't counting attempts on a route as redpoint attempts and reporting their number of tries as lower than actual. For example, "It took me 6 tries but I sent on my second redpoint attempt".

Oh yea, what is the acceptable reason for not onsiting a route? I see a lot of "I almost onsited it but missed a hold". WTF? Isn't finding the right holds or being strong enough to pull on the wrong holds part of an onsite?

How about this "Almost onsited but hands froze. Then fell a couple of times on the lower moves". Soooo....what's so "almost" about falling a couple of times!?

Also a brand new method of spraying which I call side-channel spray. It's designed for climbers on road trips to the Red who spend their entire week attempting a line which they fail to send. They need to spray about something so, in the comments of another easy route they may have done, they say "So close on (fill in some route labeled with 5.13 behind it)!".

.

Hidetaka Suzuki, bless his heart, used this tactic to the max, my "2nd try" on my (7th day), but you always felt like maybe the language barrier was a little up ***and*** I witnessed him send some hard chit, so it wasn't the hugest issue and if he was spraylording he was such a genuinely nice guy you took it in.

I remember there was a grape laying on the trail when Zuke was around and my partner remarked "Hidetaka must have dropped his lunch..."

I hear you on the "3rd try" on my 18,323nd day shenanigans. It took 18,323 days to work the moves, but I sent it 3rd try of the day.....