How best to Send?

[Foster]

I think each method has its place, depending on how your day is going, if you're feeling strong that day, what route you're gonna try, etc. Sometimes it's nice to get beta so you have a better chance of sending on your first go (i.e. flashing) but overall I think it's more respect to onsight. The move-by-move spraydown is a little excessive, if i wanted beta typically the only beta I'd want is where is the crux(es) and if there are any rests along the way.

[pigsteak]

B if you have balls,

A if you have ego problems

and for those females currently tearing up the Red?

[SCIN]

The trick for option A is to have your identicle twin give you the play by play, that way you know all of the moves will fit your size. Last spring I did a route where Chriss gave me the play by play for every move, he said it was like a climbing video game.

Chris video-gamed me up High Hard One for the flash and it was an out of body experience.

[pigsteak]

I am too old to care anymore...

[climb2core]

I am too old to care anymore...

Somebody give that man a bro-hug. Poor guy has lost his mo-jo.

[krampus]

B if you have balls,

A if you have ego problems

and for those females currently tearing up the Red?

show that vulva

for me it depends on the climb, I climb anything choss or not, if its new to me then I'll give it a go. I love climbing but not everything do I want to climb twice. Give me the beta if I ask for it cus I might not ever want to get on that pile again.

[climb2core]

I normally take beta when the send is at my Red point limit. Being realistic, I have little chance (closer to no chance) of on-sighting 12c/d but might just get lucky on 12a/b.

[pigsteak]

um, subtle spray belongs elsewhere...geesh

[climb2core]

You know, if I climbed half as hard as 90% of the people on this board, I would have said it differently. I thought about putting x.a/b or x.c/d but decided that I just don't climb hard enough to need to be subtle. How is that for honest?

[pigsteak]

don't let them fool you..there ain't 1 in 5 here who can fight out of a wet paper bag on a route. tina top ropers, all of them.