A first 5.13

[Andrew]

That is my exact same story. I have fallen at the last bolt about 4-5 times. 12d is always very quick for me, and except for one of my 13a FA's, no 13 has come even close to the amount of tries on 8-ball. I am not saying its 13a, but I do struggle with it.

[allah]

"Always"?!?!?!?!?! If you ALWAYS send them quick then you should be able to do 8-Ball. Shit should be 12c if you ask me! PUSSIES!

[JR]

Since this has turn into a 8-ball chat... What is it about 8-ball that makes it so difficult for everyone (except Allah)? Is it the two-finger pockets? Is it the clips are hard? Is it the sustained climbing? Is it that there is no jug to dyno to(this is just for Andrew)?

[toad857]

"Get to the top before your arms melt" is an apt description for that climb. It's like a time bomb. There is a great rest right before the business, but after you decide to leave it there's nothing but tough moves, hard clips, and (for me) very particular sequences that can't really be improvised.

The only 'good' hold near the top is a slopey thing after the top of the dihedral, but i've gotten there a few times and just can't get anything back on it. ended up withering away rather than regaining enough strength for 5 more moves.

The day i send 8-ball, I'm gonna drink a victory beer, take a step to the right, and onsight snooker.

[stix]

i dunno guys. i climb on snooker and 8 ball often just for fun. i love them both and have sent em both several times in varying levels of fitness and snooker always feels harder. i think the fitness required to do snooker is a significant jump up from 8 ball. i think 8 ball has a few more powerful moves back to back than snooker and that ends up feeling harder to some red river regulars.

[toad857]

i dunno... i've seen that jug ledge right in the middle of snooker. seems mighty replenish-tastic.

i havent been on snooker, but from what ive heard it's just a few straightforward crimps in a row, albeit tinier ones.

[bcombs]

i dunno... i've seen that jug ledge right in the middle of snooker. seems mighty replenish-tastic.

i havent been on snooker, but from what ive heard it's just a few straightforward crimps in a row, albeit tinier ones.

Andrew, tell the story about the jug ledge in the middle of snooker.

[Andrew]

I am not telling that story... because it is so much funnier when you tell it.


















take!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Sco Bro]

Congrats to Phil, who sent Hoofmaker this afternoon. Partial credit goes to Rob Frayer, who sent, having never been on it before today. Upon hitting the ground he proclaimed, to Phil, yeah it's not too bad and then left. That seemed to inspire Phil, although I'm not sure why he was muttering f bombs, and he sent on the next go.

I can only hope that one day, when I become an adult, that I can crush like them.

Congrats to Phil for sending his project, with a month to spare before he leaves. And to Rob, who will get home way too late tonight, but wont' care after his send. Cheers gentleman.

[pigsteak]

nicely done ladies......