A first 5.13

[climb2core]

Update Phil? Pick your route yet?

[pawilkes]

i've been working on Hoofmaker for the last couple weekends, one day per weekend. On my second go I managed to two hang it which I thought was a good sign. The beta i got for the bottom crux was really helpful and so far i've only fallen on the crux once. I managed to one hang it last weekend, falling at the kneebar because I didn't know how to get into it. I was doing an extra 3 or 4 moves and, had i known the right beta, should have been able to get into it. recovering and cranking out from the last bolt to the anchors is going to be the tough part for me. I'm pretty sure I can get to the last bolt clean the next time I get out there.

[One-Fall]

Hell yeah, Phil. Go get that thing!

[toad857]

do 8ball. when it gets upgraded to 13 it will be worth it haha

[climb2core]

Damn Phil, that is impressive! Nice work. Make sure you spray when you send!

[Andrew]

I haven't sent 8-ball yet and it has already taken me 3 times as many tries as hoofmaker, and more than snooker. I think the problem is that I suck, not that its hard.

[Andrew]

ps. I suck

[climb2core]

You can say that again. You can say that again.

[Shamis]

Good luck Phil.

My main advice is to make sure you warmup very well to maximize your endurance. Also if there is one spot that shuts you down you should try to start from 10 feet below it and climb to the top, then try to start at or near the bottom and climb just above the trouble spot. Alternate between those 2 subsets of the climb, gradually lengthening them until you send. It helps to guarantee that there are no surprises on any part of the climb should you stick the hardest moves for you, and it also means that you'll be forced to use realistic beta vs whatever beta might feel good right after a hang.

[toad857]

I haven't sent 8-ball yet and it has already taken me 3 times as many tries as hoofmaker, and more than snooker. I think the problem is that I suck, not that its hard.

i dont know... i sent phantasia in 2 tries (same grade), spank in 3, and table of colors in a dozen or so tries. but even when i was climbing at that same level i wasn't able to get 8ball after 15 or so, even after rest days! i even made it to the 'jug' after all the business a few times, but melted right off of the thing.

all im sayin is that if 8ball is legit 12d, then i know of about 10 routes off the top of my head that need to be downgraded. i have no problem calling it 13a.