Bouldering problems at Tower Rock

[Redpoint]

I went to Tower Rock this weekend and on the way I discovered a cool boulder problem. It was right next to the trail on the left about a 1 minute from the loop, and you couldn't miss it. Considering where the moss was missing I could tell people have been climbing it. The end is the hardest part, I tried to finish it up early by kicking my right leg over the arete but I realized my hand would just slip off the slopey crimp if I tried to rock over my right leg. After bailing I noticed that the arete was missing moss for a reason. The fall I took was hard enough I was sure that I should have a boulder pad if I wanted to go any higher, but since I didn't I'm just going to come back to it some other time(NOTE: the approach is easy). The rest of the problem looks really great though; the rail like feature is slopey and slanted pretty steeply, and from the looks of it, it might be a V3 or harder. I don't know because I never even touched it, but I have been on a similar feature before.

We got to the loop at Tower Rock and we turned left. After about 50 feet I noticed a boulder right next to the trail to my right with a line on it that faces Tower Rock. At first I thought the last move was going to be hard as crap, but then I found a cool sidepull pocket out left and knew I could do it. I ended up sending it and I made this video of it:

http://vimeo.com/21408444

Since the problem isn't in the book, I'm going to go ahead and claim the FA, name, and grade it: Atreyu V1

Actually the start holds sort of looked like they had chalk on it, but then again there was random round white spots in other places too, and I have seen white spots on rock before (insert joke here), I think it's lichen. The two main jugs were so sandy I suspected the line might not have been done before, but then I remembered the baby tree right in front of the line, looked like it had been crushed by either a boulder pad or a fallen climber. So I'm just joking about the FA thing.

If you have ever climbed either of those problems please reply and let me know.

This whole experience makes me wonder though, how many other boulder problems on actual boulders are at other walls that aren't listed in the book.

Maybe we should compile a list, anyone want to contribute?

[SCIN]

Most of those problems (and others in the Red) are in Chris Redmond's old Red River Bouldering guide. A bunch from Tower Rock were in there for sure. I just tried digging mine up to check out the name those guys gave the problem you showed in the video but can't find it. If I find it I'll let ya know.

[dustonian]

I think that one was called "Masturbating in a Whorehouse"...

[shotwell]

Ray, if you find that guide could you give me an ISBN number for that? I'd certainly appreciate it.

[ynp1]

That is the best bouldering video of the Red ever. Congrats on the FA! You kick ass!

[the lurkist]

edit

[OZ]

Are those blue tick marks on that problem?

[Redpoint]

This one would have been better: http://vimeo.com/21242133 just not enough close-ups.

[Rollo]

i like the fades in and out at the end of the first problem on the not so hot moves... the thing actually took three days to finish. and you end up sitting in a cave... i think dan is still there waiting for someone to bring a 6-foot step ladder.

what was the disclaimer at the end? it went by faster than a mention of "possible explosive diarrhea" on a hard-on drug commercial.