Going next weekend for the first time, any new things with camping, eating or weird happenings I should know about? I know, "trad climber going sport climbing" but I understand it is that good!
Thanks, ken
El Potrero Chico
Posted in some of the other potrero threads, but here are a couple things:
Helmets! Put one on once you get close to any wall. Shit really falls there. A. Lot. Avoid climbing under anyone, though sometimes it isn't obvious until the rocks start falling, like the mota wall, is, I think, under snot girls, but snot girls comes in from the left. There is nothing quite like the sound of a 1lb rocks falling from 300+ feet.
Windbreakers, because even if it is warm, there can be a solid wind coming through.
A set of tricams can be handy on some of the other routes to ease the runouts / backup shady bolts.
It has been like 8 or so years since I was there, but there is a killer resarunt in a kinda truck stop that was cheap and amazing.
The little grocery store is very cool, Polaroids of a much of climbers that have been through, and she even gave us a ride back to camp.
Unless you want to get out and about, you really don't need a car there. But, I hear there are some killer hot springs, and some more great climbing within a reasonable drive.
The climbing is very good, though more vert/slabby then the red. Maybe a bit soft in ratings on the newer routes? You have to do dead man walking - killer 120 foot 5.9 corner, with a bolt every 6 feet or so. Other wise sample some of the single pitch for a few days, then try to knock out a couple of the longer routes. Yankee clipper is fun - you can link the lower 8-10 pitches into 200 footers, but, since there are anchors every 100 feet or so, you only need one rope. Would bring a 70 if you can, some of the routes are OK with 60. but you are down climbing a bit to pull the rope.
The markets are great, and there was a guy selling goat cheese out of a cooler in his that made the rounds to the camp grounds.
If they still have the wwf style matches in town, it is an absolute MUST DO.
Helmets! Put one on once you get close to any wall. Shit really falls there. A. Lot. Avoid climbing under anyone, though sometimes it isn't obvious until the rocks start falling, like the mota wall, is, I think, under snot girls, but snot girls comes in from the left. There is nothing quite like the sound of a 1lb rocks falling from 300+ feet.
Windbreakers, because even if it is warm, there can be a solid wind coming through.
A set of tricams can be handy on some of the other routes to ease the runouts / backup shady bolts.
It has been like 8 or so years since I was there, but there is a killer resarunt in a kinda truck stop that was cheap and amazing.
The little grocery store is very cool, Polaroids of a much of climbers that have been through, and she even gave us a ride back to camp.
Unless you want to get out and about, you really don't need a car there. But, I hear there are some killer hot springs, and some more great climbing within a reasonable drive.
The climbing is very good, though more vert/slabby then the red. Maybe a bit soft in ratings on the newer routes? You have to do dead man walking - killer 120 foot 5.9 corner, with a bolt every 6 feet or so. Other wise sample some of the single pitch for a few days, then try to knock out a couple of the longer routes. Yankee clipper is fun - you can link the lower 8-10 pitches into 200 footers, but, since there are anchors every 100 feet or so, you only need one rope. Would bring a 70 if you can, some of the routes are OK with 60. but you are down climbing a bit to pull the rope.
The markets are great, and there was a guy selling goat cheese out of a cooler in his that made the rounds to the camp grounds.
If they still have the wwf style matches in town, it is an absolute MUST DO.
Last edited by Wes on Sun Feb 14, 2010 7:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Po, the kung fu panda
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Re: El Potrero Chico
A week is really not enough, its just so amazing!
Also, a free online guide to Potrero Chico that is up to date with the Mexico security stuff: http://climbpotrerochico.com/
Also, a free online guide to Potrero Chico that is up to date with the Mexico security stuff: http://climbpotrerochico.com/
Re: El Potrero Chico
Potrero has some of the worst choss i've ever seen in my life. I pulled off two refrigerator sized blocks there 7 or 8 years ago and have had no interest in going back since. The cliffs have white stripes down them wherever there is a line from all the rock that has come off where people climb. Be careful and don't climb underneath another party regardless of how high up they are...
