A first 5.13

[JR]

Can't agree with Second Nature being an "easy" one. From my perspective, it is the Hardest 13a at the Red because I can't touch the boulder problem.

[chriss]

Hey Phil, sounds like we have similar climbing styles. Good luck getting that first 13a. The 13a's that I found to be the easiest were hoofmaker and farewell to arms. FTA has a 10ish move v4 out the roof, followed by a good rest. Then 40-45ish feet of PE climbing. No stopper move, but no really easy moves. Lots of pinches and sloper pockets. I have also heard that Taste the Rainbow is good, but have never tried it. Once thing to keep in mind, pick a 13a that you don't think will be downgraded to 12d. I don't think people would be surprised if any of those three were downgraded (maybe I am way off here, but I have heard them all called soft, all three are easier than team wilson by a long shot). I guess tika monster fits into this category as well. 11+ climbing to a huge jug, then a 10-14ish move v5 boulder problems on slopers.

I think that skin boat is a fun route. Good movement, very endurancy, but no real good shakeout until the last bolt or so. Snooker has no section harder than v3/v4 and has some good shakeouts.

If you make it back to WI I can show you some good 13a's in IA and WI.

[dustonian]

The Force

[the lurkist]

Pick a solid one. Get the fitness from it. Convicted (wear your knee pad- 12d), Skin Boat, 8 ball (12d, really?), Snooker, The Force

[dustonian]

Agreed, seems kind of silly to pick a soft one just to "achieve" an arbitrary number... besides, 8a is the international standard!

[allah]

Do Snooker, its the easiest 13a out there! Should probably be in the 12c/d range. Or Paradise Lost, SCIN has no clue what he is talking about, it is only a 25 ft route!

[2tall]

Nobody has mentioned Prometheus Unbound yet, this was my first 13a and the best route I've ever climbed. Need to have pocket strength to send this one. Two solid rests, one right before the true crux and an even better one before the redpoint crux. This is not a gimme 13a, but don't you want to know you really earned that 13a grade?!
I have draws on Bundle of Joy right now at Solarium, feels a little soft for 13a but that might be because I'm tall. Has a sweet dyno at the top off two crimps, best route on a wall surrounded by classics, in my opinion. Best of luck, man, don't forget to enjoy the process!

[Artsay]

I agree with Hoofmaker. The low boulder problem is the meat of the route and then it's 12+ to the top, rests all over the place. I will PM you my beta for the crux.

[der uber]

Good luck Phil - go crush. Pick something that inspires you, gets you psyched.

[allah]

Find SCINS PJ and go do that, shits easy!