toad857 wrote:let's find a 'fuzzy' solution
We could go New River Gorge style and call it 12b/c, but I guess the slash grade is a whole different debate.
JR wrote:Reasonable. My bet is these v5's that felt easier for you had big reaches between positive holds...
Good point. The way I should have phrased it is that I struggle to think of any V4 that is more difficult than the start of Iniquity. Can't think of one, even slabby, technical ones.
JR wrote:Green you are smarter than this half-assed argument. You don't have to vote!! People aren't accidentally voting.
Never said you have to vote or are accidentally voting. I said that people on the fence about grades just click the vote button since it's already lined up. Or that people with no real opinion on the matter just click the vote button without thinking about what it's graded. Not a half assed argument, I think it's a logical conclusion to having the existing grade already suggested. Any self-respecting pollster/statistician would agree.
JR wrote:Granted strength does trump most things in bouldering. But if you find yourself disagreeing with bouldering grades in this range consistently I would look into it if I where you.
I agree with plenty of people on these grades, just not the V10 boulderer on how much finger strength it takes to get through a V4.
JR wrote:Being fully rested doesn't change the fact that the crux on Freakin Deacon might be harder than the start to Iniquity. (Yes, I did the same bat hang)
You're not fully rested. You still have to hang on and it is taxing on the core. I only mentioned this since it's possible the previous climber didn't take this rest. Also, no rest is better than the 30-45 minute rest you take on the ground before starting Iniquity, so even if it is a good rest, you are still more tired than starting from the ground, which will make the moves feel harder than they are. This can even apply to a no-hands where you don't actually take more than a 5-10 minute breather. (Though I've seen some take longer.) But I think even being in the middle of Freakin Deacon, with pump factored in, that the crux isn't harder than Iniquity off the ground.
Good times JR, love the bullet point breakdown. We will have to argue over a beer in the Spring.