Iniquity vs. Cell Block Six

[Andrew]

The problem I see with most people climbing the opening moves of iniquity is that they try to climb it like they do the rest of climbing in the red. Trying to climb that boulder problem smoothly and efficiently is hard to do, but its much easier of you just romplestomp it. Get ganster, thug, wild, whatever.. Hulk Smash that thing. The easiest way is to do it in two moves. Left hand up to dish, then Blake Griffin Dunk that jug. Do it violently. When you hit the jug you should look like this.

[Brentucky]

The Juice was an ass-kicker, and not just to me. I didn't realize it was a sandbag or whatever when I was trying to climb it, but damn that bottom section felt hard! I am looking forward to getting a taste of Kipp's 5.12 pumpfests because I usually struggle and curse up ANY pumpy route he sets and lays a grade on. That is fun.

[dustonian]

Sounds like Iniquity start is more like V5-6. I tried it for like 3 minutes at then end of a long day of climbing and then just pulled through the moves. But IMO I think Iniquity is deserving of 12c. Once I send it I will vote for that grade.

Nah, V4 tops.

[chriss]

Sounds like Iniquity start is more like V5-6. I tried it for like 3 minutes at then end of a long day of climbing and then just pulled through the moves. But IMO I think Iniquity is deserving of 12c. Once I send it I will vote for that grade.

I am not sure trying for 3 minutes at the end of the day and not doing a move warrants an upgrade. I agree with Andrew, with the right beta its v4ish. I found the start of Strevels to be much tougher.

[aburgoon]

Sounds like the grade of 5.12 fits pretty well.

the abcd system is really goofy. Someone decided that breaking up a number grade into thirds (-/+) wasn't precise enough, so they made it into quarters. Can anyone really feel the difference of 4 levels of difficulty in 5.12? I can't.

[dustonian]

Sure ya can... Steelworker feels way harder than 12b, I can't send 12d, and 12a is usually fairly easy unless Andrew bolted it or it's on granite.

[climb2core]

Cruxifixion's beginning is easier in my opinion but if you're not into slicing your fingertips open you may just let go and say "fuck this, lower me" which may make it appear harder.

From the route description (assuming written by SCIN): This is the long and aesthetic vertical orange face right of "Dirty Old Men". Technical, powerful, and reachy vertical climbing. The direct start is probably V6/7. After the opening moves the route becomes much easier.

So, According to the authority by the transitive property, Iniquity comes in at the minimum of V6/7.

[JR]

Sounds like the grade of 5.12 fits pretty well.

the abcd system is really goofy. Someone decided that breaking up a number grade into thirds (-/+) wasn't precise enough, so they made it into quarters. Can anyone really feel the difference of 4 levels of difficulty in 5.12? I can't.

So you could handle 12-,12,12+ but couldn't wrap your head around abcd. Maybe you are right, that is why we are arguing the difference between 12b and 12c which according to you would just be 5.12.

That is all fine and good but I have a feeling we would spend most of our time arguing whether Hoofmaker is a 12+ or 13-.

[JR]

I know this thread isn't about Cruxifixion but...

First off. The route is really quite good. All it needed was a little brushing and I.D.ing the foot holds and it was good to go. It has great movement with cool pockets and crimps. Nice and long too.

Secondly. The grade. Not 12D. Not sure what starting holds the FA guy used but be real. The route can be accessed safely from the left or the right. Why anyone would try to contrive a v6/7 start to this thing is beyond me. I realize vertical routes are not in vogue right now but people are lined up at Orange Juice.... I personally think the FA did a disservice to this route by trying to make this route something that it isn't. A bullshit boulder problem with a nice route on top. F the grade. Go try this route.

[SCIN]

Cruxifixion's beginning is easier in my opinion but if you're not into slicing your fingertips open you may just let go and say "fuck this, lower me" which may make it appear harder.

From the route description (assuming written by SCIN): This is the long and aesthetic vertical orange face right of "Dirty Old Men". Technical, powerful, and reachy vertical climbing. The direct start is probably V6/7. After the opening moves the route becomes much easier.

So, According to the authority by the transitive property, Iniquity comes in at the minimum of V6/7.

Remember, I didn't write a lot of the original Muir Valley route descriptions. Muir was plugged into my first edition last minute and I had only been there a few times then. It was in its infancy. That description came from the FA. I'd say the boulder problem is like V3 maybe? It's just sharp as shit.