My super hero is http://www.neropes.com/CommTeams.aspx?mid=4&id=14 truly and inspiration!Pull ups
Re: Pull ups
If you do the workout it will get your endurance to match your power...at almost 53 (March 5th is coming up) I hope to keep improving even if it is at snail pace to avoid injuries My super hero is http://www.neropes.com/CommTeams.aspx?mid=4&id=14 truly and inspiration!
My super hero is http://www.neropes.com/CommTeams.aspx?mid=4&id=14 truly and inspiration!Margarita
The difference between bravery and stupidity is the outcome.
The difference between bravery and stupidity is the outcome.
Re: Pull ups
Forgot to tell you he is now 63 and has a double hip replacement and still climbing STRONG!!!
Margarita
The difference between bravery and stupidity is the outcome.
The difference between bravery and stupidity is the outcome.
Re: Pull ups
I am a high school bio teacher and was wowed by the understanding of the Lactic Acid, Krebs and oxidative cycles that lead to the production of ATP, including net totals. I really enjoyed reading the discussions over the topic and how it pertained to climbing. Makes me feel as though there may be some validation in what I teach. I as well would love to one day be able to climb like Tutugirl. Margarita, me and my wife met you and your husband during Rocktober fest and your climbing was amazing, but overshadowed by your hospitality you gave to us.
Re: Pull ups
Thank you Monty. Meeting people and having a great time at the crag is what is most important to my husband and I. I am happy that climbing provide us with the opportunity to meet people and share our passion.
Margarita
The difference between bravery and stupidity is the outcome.
The difference between bravery and stupidity is the outcome.
-
cliftongifford
- Posts: 649
- Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 11:57 am
Re: Pull ups
reading this discussion has made me wish i'd been a little more attentive in biology. very very interesting info.
Re: Pull ups
I remember back in the eighth grade during football we all had a chinup contest and I won with a count of 20. The next best was 10. Since then I could always do at least 20 but I found that I wasn't nearly as good at pullups. I could only do a little over 10.
I also remember when I first started climbing that 5.8s were hard for me. Watching new climbers though I have noticed the main reason why beginner climbers (especially males) do so poorly is because they keep their arms bent when they aren't sure what to do next, and the lactic acid builds up way to quick on them.
I always give out pointers to beginners at the gym (like some rest positions e.g. legs bent arms strait, arms and legs strait but keep your hip in to the wall, legs strait and only one arm strait on a high hold and not letting the other arm be bent on a lower hold telling them to just let it hang or shake it, and legs strait leaning to the side with one arm on a lower hold instead of standing up strait and bending that arm) and they seem to be appreciative of that. One funny thing though is how many newer climbers, even ones who have been climbing for 6 months, don't believe in shaking. They rather dart up the route as fast as they can than to stop and shake. My theory on why they don't believe in shaking is because they still haven't learned when to shake i.e. at the best rest spots on the route.
Eric Horst recommends climbing as fast as you can(while maintaining excellent technique) through cruxes and then stopping to shake at each rest spot. His theory being the longer you are on the route the more lactic acid that's going to build up. Whenever I used to climb fast in the cave though Rob always told me I should slow down. It's probably because I treated the entire cave like a crux since it pumps me up so much. I finally learned to shake here and there on it, and every send I ever got in the cave I climbed it slowly. A lot of my gym top rope projects only went down when they did though because I worked the crux as fast as I could and it didn't end up pumping me up like it normally would.
One funny thing about lactic acid is how many non climbers are oblivious to what you're doing when you're shaking. I can't tell you how many people have asked me what I'm doing with my arm when I'm shaking on my bouldering trees at the park. Shaking does look pretty ridiculous, and I remember when I first started climbing that I always felt silly when I was shaking on a route at the gym. I have had other beginners tell me the same thing, that they just feel stupid when shaking. Once I started leading though, shaking off is what I would do about half the time I was on the route. What's wrong with me? I'm itching like a man on a fuzzy tree. My friends say I'm actin' wild as a bug, I'm in love. I'm all shook up Mm mm oh, oh, yeah, yeah! My hands are shaky and my knees are weak. I can't seem to stand on my own two feet. Who do you thank when you have such luck? I'm in love. I'm all shook up Mm mm oh, oh, yeah, yeah! Please don't ask me what's on my mind. I'm a little mixed up, but I'm feelin' fine. When I'm near that girl that I love best, my heart beats so it scares me to death! She touched my hand what a chill I got. Her lips are like a volcano that's hot. I'm proud to say she's my buttercup. I'm in love. I'm all shook up Mm mm oh, oh, yeah, yeah! My tongue gets tied when I try to speak. My insides shake like a leaf on a tree. There's only one cure for this body of mine, that's to have the girl that I love so fine!
"Effective Pull-up Training: The standard pull-up has long been a staple exercise for climbers. Several sets of pull-ups performed a few days a week will provide a base level of "pull-muscle" strength needed to learn all the basic climbing techniques. However, beyond a certain intermediate level of difficulty, climbing requires more specific forms of strength such as the ability to lock-off a handhold (to make a long reach) or make a quick, powerful upward movement. The standard pull-up falls far short of being able to build such specialized strength.
For example, we all know climbers who can knock off a decent number of pull-ups (say, greater than 15 or 20) but cannot regularly knock off 5.10s or 5.11s (or V3 - V5 boulder problems). Although poor technique may be part of the problem, many lack static strength in a variety of lock-off positions as well as the dynamic strength needed to power up hard moves on steep terrain. Consequently, if you can pass the "15 pull-up test" you will benefit little by drubbing yourself with more pull-ups--instead you need to engage in more targeted training of the pull muscles.
Before we dive into the details of some pull muscle exercises, it is important to reconsider what, in fact, is your weakest link on the rock. Surely, pull-up power and lock-off strength are vital, but many climbers fail due to poor technique and mental control or even because their grip strength is sub par. If any of this sounds familiar, then your training time will be better invested elsewhere.
Pull-ups & Lat Pulldowns: As alluded to above, this most obvious exercise for climbers is very useful for beginners, but it's next to worthless for enhancing the capabilities of an elite climber. If you are unable to do a single set of 15 pull-ups then you should continue training with them about three days per week. However, there are a few strategies you can leverage to enhance the gains that result from this training. In fact, I believe most novice climbers can learn to do 15 pull-ups in under one year of training, given they use the following techniques.
Perform your pull-up training on a bar or a pair of "good" holds on a fingerboard. The initial goal is to train the pull muscles, not the fingers. Train only in the "palms away" position (the way you usually grip the rock) and with your hands initially at shoulder width. Begin by doing five sets to failure with a three-minute rest between sets. Three days of training per week is optimal. If you are climbing during the week, perform your pull-ups at the end of the climbing day, not on a rest day.
If you are unable to do five consecutive pull-ups, employ one of these two powerful strategies. Place a chair below the pull-up bar and step up into a lock-off position with the bar just below your chin. Remove your feet from the chair and hold the lock-off for 5 seconds before lowering yourself down (eccentric training) to a slow five-second count. Immediately step back up on the chair to the top lock-off position and repeat the process exactly. Do five total repetitions, then rest 5 minutes. Perform 2 to 3 total sets. The second strategy is to simply have a "spotter" hold you around the waste and lift a portion of your body weight so that you can do 8 to 10 repetitions. Do three sets in this manner with a 5-minute rest in between. Resolve to use these strategies three days per week, and you'll be shocked at how fast your pull-up ability improves.
Your long-term goal is to be able to crank out five sets of 10 to 15 repetitions with three to five minutes of rest between sets. When you reach this goal, you will need to begin adding weight around your waist (begin with a 10-pound weight belt) or utilize a lat-pulldown machine at a health club. In using a pulldown machine, use a weight heavy enough to produce failure in between 6 and 12 reps. Do five total sets with three minutes rest in between.
Eventually, you'll find that doing the same pull-up training becomes monotonous and provides little additional gain in functional climbing strength. In the next article, I'll provide a look at some highly effective alternatives to "ye ol' Pull-up."" Eric Horst
And well that concludes my post, thanks for reading.
I also remember when I first started climbing that 5.8s were hard for me. Watching new climbers though I have noticed the main reason why beginner climbers (especially males) do so poorly is because they keep their arms bent when they aren't sure what to do next, and the lactic acid builds up way to quick on them.
I always give out pointers to beginners at the gym (like some rest positions e.g. legs bent arms strait, arms and legs strait but keep your hip in to the wall, legs strait and only one arm strait on a high hold and not letting the other arm be bent on a lower hold telling them to just let it hang or shake it, and legs strait leaning to the side with one arm on a lower hold instead of standing up strait and bending that arm) and they seem to be appreciative of that. One funny thing though is how many newer climbers, even ones who have been climbing for 6 months, don't believe in shaking. They rather dart up the route as fast as they can than to stop and shake. My theory on why they don't believe in shaking is because they still haven't learned when to shake i.e. at the best rest spots on the route.
Eric Horst recommends climbing as fast as you can(while maintaining excellent technique) through cruxes and then stopping to shake at each rest spot. His theory being the longer you are on the route the more lactic acid that's going to build up. Whenever I used to climb fast in the cave though Rob always told me I should slow down. It's probably because I treated the entire cave like a crux since it pumps me up so much. I finally learned to shake here and there on it, and every send I ever got in the cave I climbed it slowly. A lot of my gym top rope projects only went down when they did though because I worked the crux as fast as I could and it didn't end up pumping me up like it normally would.
One funny thing about lactic acid is how many non climbers are oblivious to what you're doing when you're shaking. I can't tell you how many people have asked me what I'm doing with my arm when I'm shaking on my bouldering trees at the park. Shaking does look pretty ridiculous, and I remember when I first started climbing that I always felt silly when I was shaking on a route at the gym. I have had other beginners tell me the same thing, that they just feel stupid when shaking. Once I started leading though, shaking off is what I would do about half the time I was on the route. What's wrong with me? I'm itching like a man on a fuzzy tree. My friends say I'm actin' wild as a bug, I'm in love. I'm all shook up Mm mm oh, oh, yeah, yeah! My hands are shaky and my knees are weak. I can't seem to stand on my own two feet. Who do you thank when you have such luck? I'm in love. I'm all shook up Mm mm oh, oh, yeah, yeah! Please don't ask me what's on my mind. I'm a little mixed up, but I'm feelin' fine. When I'm near that girl that I love best, my heart beats so it scares me to death! She touched my hand what a chill I got. Her lips are like a volcano that's hot. I'm proud to say she's my buttercup. I'm in love. I'm all shook up Mm mm oh, oh, yeah, yeah! My tongue gets tied when I try to speak. My insides shake like a leaf on a tree. There's only one cure for this body of mine, that's to have the girl that I love so fine!
"Effective Pull-up Training: The standard pull-up has long been a staple exercise for climbers. Several sets of pull-ups performed a few days a week will provide a base level of "pull-muscle" strength needed to learn all the basic climbing techniques. However, beyond a certain intermediate level of difficulty, climbing requires more specific forms of strength such as the ability to lock-off a handhold (to make a long reach) or make a quick, powerful upward movement. The standard pull-up falls far short of being able to build such specialized strength.
For example, we all know climbers who can knock off a decent number of pull-ups (say, greater than 15 or 20) but cannot regularly knock off 5.10s or 5.11s (or V3 - V5 boulder problems). Although poor technique may be part of the problem, many lack static strength in a variety of lock-off positions as well as the dynamic strength needed to power up hard moves on steep terrain. Consequently, if you can pass the "15 pull-up test" you will benefit little by drubbing yourself with more pull-ups--instead you need to engage in more targeted training of the pull muscles.
Before we dive into the details of some pull muscle exercises, it is important to reconsider what, in fact, is your weakest link on the rock. Surely, pull-up power and lock-off strength are vital, but many climbers fail due to poor technique and mental control or even because their grip strength is sub par. If any of this sounds familiar, then your training time will be better invested elsewhere.
Pull-ups & Lat Pulldowns: As alluded to above, this most obvious exercise for climbers is very useful for beginners, but it's next to worthless for enhancing the capabilities of an elite climber. If you are unable to do a single set of 15 pull-ups then you should continue training with them about three days per week. However, there are a few strategies you can leverage to enhance the gains that result from this training. In fact, I believe most novice climbers can learn to do 15 pull-ups in under one year of training, given they use the following techniques.
Perform your pull-up training on a bar or a pair of "good" holds on a fingerboard. The initial goal is to train the pull muscles, not the fingers. Train only in the "palms away" position (the way you usually grip the rock) and with your hands initially at shoulder width. Begin by doing five sets to failure with a three-minute rest between sets. Three days of training per week is optimal. If you are climbing during the week, perform your pull-ups at the end of the climbing day, not on a rest day.
If you are unable to do five consecutive pull-ups, employ one of these two powerful strategies. Place a chair below the pull-up bar and step up into a lock-off position with the bar just below your chin. Remove your feet from the chair and hold the lock-off for 5 seconds before lowering yourself down (eccentric training) to a slow five-second count. Immediately step back up on the chair to the top lock-off position and repeat the process exactly. Do five total repetitions, then rest 5 minutes. Perform 2 to 3 total sets. The second strategy is to simply have a "spotter" hold you around the waste and lift a portion of your body weight so that you can do 8 to 10 repetitions. Do three sets in this manner with a 5-minute rest in between. Resolve to use these strategies three days per week, and you'll be shocked at how fast your pull-up ability improves.
Your long-term goal is to be able to crank out five sets of 10 to 15 repetitions with three to five minutes of rest between sets. When you reach this goal, you will need to begin adding weight around your waist (begin with a 10-pound weight belt) or utilize a lat-pulldown machine at a health club. In using a pulldown machine, use a weight heavy enough to produce failure in between 6 and 12 reps. Do five total sets with three minutes rest in between.
Eventually, you'll find that doing the same pull-up training becomes monotonous and provides little additional gain in functional climbing strength. In the next article, I'll provide a look at some highly effective alternatives to "ye ol' Pull-up."" Eric Horst
And well that concludes my post, thanks for reading.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
Re: Pull ups
I am not gonna say a goddamn thing ....
Re: Pull ups
And with that, Captain Obvious hastens the death of yet another fine thread.
Re: Pull ups
I am not even going to point out that almost the entire thing is plagiarized from nicros ...nope not gonna