Recovery: What am I missing?

[rjackson]

It is amazing how hard you can crank over a sketch piece

+1

[the lurkist]

Rowing. Try it. You will like it.

[heavyc]

I thought about trying rowing at the local gym, can you give me a basic workout plan for it?

[the lurkist]

the stroke is basic. It takes little time to get efficient at it. drive with the legs, swing with the back and then pull with the arms.
www.concept2.com has all the resources. vids on the stoke and all the workouts and discussions on exercise physiology.
When you google it you will see the Brits are way into rowing. They seem to have the most involved community. Concept2 also has a log page where you can start to log your times for your best 500 meter, 2 k, 10 k etc in your age group and compare against others with similar demographics and then against all comers. It becomes addictive trying to catch the guy in front of you, setting time goals and trying to achieve them. The gold standard seems to be doing a 2 k in less than 7 min. This is like doing Ro/ breaking into 5.12. If you can do it, you are getting started on your way to 6:30, sub 6 (hard 5.13)... you get the idea.
2 k distance is high end aerobic/ on the cusp of anaerobic- difficult to maintain for long. How much pain can you endure?
Lots of workouts- again see concept2 site.
The reason the complement to climbing is so good is b/c it is much less powerful, low resistance on upper extremities, but too numerous to count reps with low resistance- like running for the arms. I would love it if some of you fit dudes got the bug and could report back on your thoughts of its application to climbing.
cheers

[twan]

dustonian wrote:I tend to agree... taking at least a month off a year is a good idea if you don't like being injured in climbing season. December is perfect for this... keep up the cardio, but no climbing.



I agree too... Back in gym Thursday after 4 weeks off...

You're kidding right?

[the lurkist]

no, really... find another interest and get away from climbing for 4-6 wks

[twan]

So the solution to not get injured during climbing season is to quit for a month? Interesting.

[heavyc]

thanks Hugh!

[pigsteak]

So the solution to not get injured during climbing season is to quit for a month? Interesting.

absolutely..if you have been pushing it during your peak season, you have so many micro trauma/tears that you don't even realize how tight/close to serious injury you are...take a full month off, and you will literally feel your body coming back. if you feel nothing, it only means you didn't really push it during the climbing season.

none of this applies to trad wieners of course...you guys are recalling the 8 pitches you did the whole of 2010, and now discussing ice climbing...

[rjackson]

Pigsteak... so true! Lol!

But, as a trad-wiener and a sport-whatever, I've found that just staying off of plastic has kept me from major injury. And last year I climbed 10-11 months out of the year.